Friday, January 11, 2019

perfume, fragrance

 沉香屬Aquilaria),又名土沉香屬 Aquilaria is a genus of fifteen species of trees, called lign aloes or lign-aloes trees, in the family Thymelaeaceae, native to southeast Asia. They occur particularly in the rainforests of Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Northeast India, Bangladesh, the Philippines, Borneo and New Guinea. The genus is best known, together with Gyrinops, as the principal producer of the resin-suffused agarwood used in aromatic incense production, especially Aquilaria malaccensis. 
Aquilaria sinensis is a species of plant in the family Thymelaeaceae. It is endemic to China. It is threatened by habitat loss. This medicinal plant is a source of fragrant wood, formed under a pathological condition, called Chen Xiang (沈香) or agarwood.牙香樹Aquilaria sinensis),又名蜜香樹莞香樹土沉香女兒香白木香,屬於瑞香科土沉香屬,是香港原生稀有的雙子葉植物。牙香樹亦盛產於華南
  • In Hong Kong, the numbers of Aquilaria sinensis are down to within 1,000, according to the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department. To Ho, the losses cannot be quantified. They are precious and irreplaceable. The heady fragrance of agarwood gave Hong Kong its name, which means fragrant harbor in Chinese. Ho believes Hong Kong residents can find their cultural roots in those trees. According to Lo Hsiang-lin, a renowned researcher in Hakka culture, as early as the Song Dynasty (960-1279), incense trees were widely planted at Sha Lo Wan and on Hong Kong’s Lantau island. Farmers transported the tree products from inland to Shek Pai Wan, where they were exported to Southeast Asia and further to Arabia. Shek Pai Wan was known as the “port of Hong Kong” ­— the port used for transporting incense in Cantonese, and “Hong Kong” later became the name of the entire city.https://www.chinadailyhk.com/article/128937#Fragrant-memories
- hk

  • 東馬肚坑被視為馬鞍山難度系數最高的一條石澗,石澗兩旁的山上,有不少樹被削皮,即使沒有植物知識的人,也可判斷被砍伐的是沉香樹。偷樹賊將樹皮剝去,為的是坐等樹汁流下來,就是沉香,價值堪比黃金。看着需要幾百年才能長成的沉香樹遭到毒手,真令人心痛不已。http://www.takungpao.com.hk/life/238152/2020/0731/481441.html


龍涎香  Ambergris (/ˈæmbərɡrs/ or /ˈæmbərɡrɪs/Latin:Ambra griseaAmbre grisambergrease or grey amber) is a solid, waxy, flammable substance of a dull grey or blackish colour produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. The word amber is derived from the Arabic word 'anbar'(عنبر).[2] Freshly produced ambergris has a marine, faecalodour. However, as it ages, it acquires a sweet, earthy scent commonly likened to the fragrance of rubbing alcohol without the vaporous chemical astringency. Although ambergris was formerly highly valued by perfumers as a fixative (allowing the scent to last much longer), It has now largely been replaced by synthetic ambroxan.而歐洲人把龍涎香叫做「琥珀香」,其中羅馬人叫做「撒克」,法國人叫做「黃色的香料」,英國人叫做「琥珀」。
龍涎香在唐代称为阿末香,即来自阿拉伯语anbar段成式酉阳杂俎》“拨拔力国,在西南海中,不食五谷,食肉而已。常针牛畜脉,取血和乳生食。无衣服,唯腰下用羊皮掩之。其妇人洁白端正,国人自掠卖与外国商人,其价数倍。土地唯有象牙及阿末香”宋代称为龙涎:《岭外代答》 龙涎条:“大食西海多龙,枕石一睡,涎沫浮水,积而能坚。鲛人探之以为至宝。新者色白,稍久则紫,甚久则黑。因至番禺尝见之,不薰不莸,似浮石而轻也。人云龍涎有異香,或云龍涎氣腥能發眾香,皆非也。龍涎於香本無損益,但能聚煙耳。和香而用真龍涎,焚之一銖,翠煙浮空,結而不散,座客可用一翦分煙縷。此其所以然者,蜃氣樓台之餘烈也”[5]。龍涎香在宋代仍是高價奢侈品,在當時志怪小說夷堅志裡,就有仿製龍涎香以牟取暴利的記載,夷堅丁志卷九:"許道壽者,本建康道士。後還為民,居臨安太廟前,以鬻香為業。仿廣州造龍涎諸香,雖沉麝箋檀,亦大半作偽。其母寡居久,忽如妊娠,一產二物,身成小兒形而頭一為貓、一為鴉,惡而殺之。數日間母子皆死,時隆興元年。",此一故事,提到了商人在南宋國都臨安(今杭州市)販賣號稱廣州造的偽製龍涎香的情形,廣州在宋元時期即為中西海上貿易的主要大港之一(其他如泉州、明州等)。明朝三宝太监郑和下西洋时曾访问苏门答腊北的龙涎屿;此岛以出产龙涎而得名;随行通译费信在《星槎胜览》中有专章记述龙涎的采集和售价:“龙涎屿:此屿南立海中,浮艳海面,波击云腾。每至春间,群龙所集于上,交戏而遗涎沫,番人乃架独木舟登此屿,采取而归。设遇风波,则人俱下海,一手附舟傍,一手揖水而至岸也。其龙涎初若脂胶,黑黄色,颇有鱼腥之气,久则成就大泥。或大鱼腹中剖出,若斗大圆珠,亦觉鱼腥,间焚之,其发清香可爱。货于苏门之市,价亦非轻,官秤一两,用彼国金钱十二个,一斤该金钱一百九十二个,准中国铜钱四万九十文,尤其贵也。[6]在阿拉伯中世紀文學名著天方夜譚裡,第五百六十夜辛巴達第六次的航海歷險中,描述了在一座不知名島上有座龍涎泉,蠟般的龍涎馨香四溢地流向大海,為鯨魚取食,隨即噴出而在海面上凝結成龍涎香。顯見作者雖然了解龍涎香和鯨魚的關係;但可能不明白其構成機制,又或者單純為故事增添神話色彩。Un chapitre y est également consacré dans Moby Dick de Herman Melville :« L'ambre gris est mou, cireux et si odorant et épicé qu'on l'utilise beaucoup en parfumerie, pour des pastilles, pour des bougies de luxe, pour des poudres à cheveux et des pommades. Les Turcs l'utilisent en cuisine et aussi ils l'emportent à La Mecque dans le même but qu'on porte l'encens à Rome à la basilique Saint-Pierre. Certains marchands de vin en laissent tomber quelques gouttes dans le clairet pour le parfumer. »

Incense is aromatic biotic material which releases fragrant smoke when burned. The term refers to the material itself, rather than to the aroma that it produces. Incense is used for aesthetic reasons, and in therapymeditation, and ceremony. It may also be used as a simple deodorant or insectifuge. Incense is composed of aromatic plant materials, often combined with essential oils.[5] The forms taken by incense differ with the underlying culture, and have changed with advances in technology and increasing diversity in the reasons for burning it.[6] Incense can generally be separated into two main types: "indirect-burning" and "direct-burning". Indirect-burning incense (or "non-combustible incense") is not capable of burning on its own, and requires a separate heat source. Direct-burning incense (or "combustible incense") is lit directly by a flame and then fanned or blown out, leaving a glowing ember that smoulders and releases a smoky fragrance. Direct-burning incense is either a paste formed around a bamboo stick, or a paste that is extruded into a stick or cone shape. The word incense comes from Latin for incendere meaning "to burn". Combustible bouquets were used by the ancient Egyptians, who employed incense within both pragmatic and mystical capacities. Incense was burnt to counteract or obscure malodorous products of human habitation, but was widely perceived to also deter malevolent demons and appease the gods with its pleasant aroma.[2] Resin balls were found in many prehistoric Egyptian tombs in El Mahasna, furnishing tangible archaeological substantiation to the prominence of incense and related compounds within Egyptian antiquity.[7] One of the oldest extant incense burners originates from the 5th dynasty.[7] The Temple of Deir-el-Bahari in Egypt contains a series of carvings that depict an expedition for incense. The Babylonians used incense while offering prayers to divining  oracles. Incense spread from there to Greece and Rome.Incense burners have been found in the Indus Civilization (3300–1300 BCE).[11] Evidence suggests oils were used mainly for their aroma. India also adopted techniques from East Asia, adapting the inherited formulation to encompass aromatic roots and other indigenous flora. This comprised the initial usage of subterranean plant parts within the fabrication of incense.[12] New herbs like Sarsaparilla seeds, frankincense, and cypress were used by Indians for incense.[12]
At around 2000 BCE, Ancient China began the use of incense in the religious sense, namely for worship.[13] Incense was used by Chinese cultures from Neolithic times and became more widespread in the XiaShang, and Zhou dynasties.[14] The earliest documented instance of incense utilization comes from the ancient Chinese, who employed incense composed of herbs and plant products (such as cassiacinnamonstyraxsandalwood, amongst others) as a component of numerous formalized ceremonial rites.[12] Incense usage reached its peak during the Song dynasty with numerous buildings erected specifically for incense ceremonies. Brought to Japan in the 6th century by Korean Buddhist monks, who used the mystical aromas in their purification rites, the delicate scents of Koh (high-quality Japanese incense) became a source of amusement and entertainment with nobles in the Imperial Court during the Heian Era 200 years later. During the 14th-century Ashikaga shogunate, a samurai warrior might perfume his helmet and armor with incense to achieve an aura of invincibility (as well as to make a noble gesture to whomever might take his head in battle). It wasn't until the Muromachi period during the 15th and 16th century that incense appreciation (kōdō) spread to the upper and middle classes of Japanese society.
- Incense sticks may be termed joss sticks, especially in parts of East AsiaSouth Asia and Southeast Asia. Among ethnic Chinese and Chinese-influenced communities they are traditionally burned before the threshold of a home or business, before an image of a Chinese popular religion divinity or spirit of place, or in small and humble or large and elaborate shrine found at the main entrance to each and every village. Here the earth god is propitiated in the hope of bringing wealth and health to the village. They can also be burned in front of a door, or open window as an offering to heaven, or the devas. The word "joss" is derived from the Latin deus (god) via the Portuguese deos through the Javanese dejos, through Chinese pidgin English.[23][24] They are also burned at temples across many parts of East, South and Southeast Asia.Incense sticks, also known as agarbathi (or agarbatti) and joss sticks, in which an incense paste is rolled or moulded around a bamboo stick, is one of the main forms of incense in India. The bamboo method originated in India, and is distinct from the Nepal/Tibet and Japanese methods of stick making which don't use a bamboo core. Though the method is also used in the west, particularly in America, it is strongly associated with India. The basic ingredients are the bamboo stick, the paste (generally made of charcoal dust and joss/jiggit/gum/tabu powder - an adhesive made from the bark of litsea glutinosa and other trees),[43] and the perfume ingredients - which would be a masala (spice mix) powder of ground ingredients into which the stick would be rolled, or a perfume liquid sometimes consisting of synthetic ingredients into which the stick would be dipped. Perfume is sometimes sprayed on the coated sticks. Stick machines are sometimes used, which coat the stick with paste and perfume, though the bulk of production is done by hand rolling at home. There are about 5,000 incense companies in India which take raw unperfumed sticks hand-rolled by approx 200,000 women working part-time at home, and then apply their own brand of perfume, and package the sticks for sale.[44]An experienced home-worker can produce 4,000 raw sticks a day.[45] There are about 50 main companies who together account for up to 30% of the market, and around 500 of the companies, including a significant number of the main ones, including Moksh Agarbatti and Cycle Pure,[46] are based in Bangalore.
- japan
- hk

  • 「90後」香藝師鄧 皓荃(Aaron),十多年前遊廟被一股幽香 吸引,自此踏上尋香路成為「香癡」。被Aaron暱稱「香舖百貨公司」的香舖位 於西灣河街市,那些年還是中學生的他餘錢 不多,也很捨得花七八十元買香。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2018/11/27/a10-1127.pdf
  • https://hk.lifestyle.appledaily.com/lifestyle/special/daily/article/20190111/20588131藏香師仁青德哲在拉薩製作藏香13年,他上山採摘植物作草藥香料時遇過兇猛野獸,爬遍崎嶇沒路的山,從山上採藥到製香都一手包辦,所製香品更是布達拉宮、大昭寺的供香



Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors.[1][2] Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the more expensive animal products in the world. The name originates from the Late Greek μόσχος 'moskhos', from Persian 'mushk', from Sanskrit 'muska-s' "testicle", from Latin 'mus' "mouse" (so called, presumably, for resemblance; see muscle). The deer gland was thought to resemble a scrotum. German has Moschus, from a M.L. form of the Late Greek word. Spanish has almizcle, from Arabic al misk "the musk", from Persian. Applied to various plants and animals of similar smell (e.g. musk-ox, 1744) and has come to encompass a wide variety of aromatic substances with similar odors, despite their often differing chemical structuresUntil the late 19th century, natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively. The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk is muscone.

龍涎香是抹香鯨消化系統產生的結石,主要用來作香水的定香劑,中醫則指具有行氣活血、散結止痛、理氣化痰等功效。https://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20191025/00180_034.html

Agarwoodaloeswood or gharuwood is a fragrant dark resinous wood used in incense, perfume, and small carvings. It is formed in the heartwood of aquilaria trees when they become infected with a type of mould(Phialophora parasitica). Prior to infection, the heartwood is odourless, relatively light and pale coloured; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin, called aloes or agar (as well as gaharujinkooud, or oodh; not to be confused with bukhoor), in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin embedded heartwood. The resin embedded wood is valued in many cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes. The aromatic qualities of agarwood are influenced by the species, geographic location, its branch, trunk and root origin, length of time since infection, and methods of harvesting and processing. The odour of agarwood is complex and pleasing,[7] with few or no similar natural analogues. In the perfume state, the scent is mainly distinguished by a combination of "oriental-woody" and "very soft fruity-floral" notes. The incense smoke is also characterized by a "sweet-balsamic" note and "shades of vanilla and musk" and amber (not to be confused with ambergris).[5] As a result, agarwood and its essential oil gained great cultural and religious significance in ancient civilizations around the world, being described as a fragrant product as early as 1400 BCE in one of the world's oldest written texts – the Sanskrit Vedas from India. Agarwood is highly revered in the seminal texts of Hinduism, Christianity, Buddhism, and Islam [1]Dioscorides in his book Materia Medica (65 CE) described several medical qualities of agarwood (Áγαλλοχου) andmentioned its use as an incense. Even though Dioscorides describes agarwood as having an astringent and bitter taste, it was used to freshen the breath when chewed or as a decoction held in the mouth. He also writes that a root extract was used to treat stomach complaints and dysentery as well as pains of the lungs and liver[1]. Agarwood’s use as a medicinal product was also recorded in the Sahih Muslim, which dates back to approximately the eighth century, and in the Ayurvedic medicinal text the Susruta Samhita. As early as the third century CE in ancient Viet Nam, the chronicle Nan zhou yi wu zhi (Lĩnh nam chích quái) (Strange things from the South) written by Wa Zhen of the Eastern Wu Dynasty mentioned agarwood produced in the Rinan commandery, now Central Vietnam, and how people collected it in the mountains. During the sixth century CE in Japan, in the recordings of the Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan) the second oldest book of classical Japanese history, mention is made of a large piece of fragrant wood identified as agarwood. The source for this piece of wood is claimed to be from Pursat, Cambodia (based on the smell of the wood). The famous piece of wood still remains in Japan today and is showcased less than 10 times per century at the Nara National MuseumStarting in 1580 after Nguyễn Hoàng took control over the central provinces of modern Vietnam, he encouraged trade with other countries, specifically China and Japan. Agarwood was exported in three varieties: Calambac (kỳ nam in Vietnamese), trầm hương (very similar but slightly harder and slightly more abundant), and agarwood proper. A pound of Calambac bought in Hội An for 15 taels could be sold in Nagasaki for 600 taels. The Nguyễn Lords soon established a Royal Monopoly over the sale of Calambac. This monopoly helped fund the Nguyễn state finances during the early years of the Nguyen rule. Xuanzang's travelogues and the Harshacharita, written in seventh century AD in Northern India, mentions use of agarwood products such as 'Xasipat' (writing-material) and 'aloe-oil' in ancient Assam (Kamarupa). The tradition of making writing materials from its bark still exists in Assam.
Agarwood is known under many names in different cultures:
  • In Cambodia, it is called "chann crassna". The fragrance from this wood is called "khloem chann" (ខ្លឹមចាន់) or "khloem chann crassna". "khloem" is hard wood, "chann crassna" is the tree species Aquilaria crassna in khmer language.
  • In Hindi it is known as agar, which is derived originally from the Sanskrit aguru .[10][11]
  • In Bengali, agarwood is known as "agor/agoro gach(আগর গাছ)" and the agarwood oil as "agor/agoro attor(আগর আতর)".
  • It is known by the same Sanskrit name in Telugu and Kannada as Aguru.
  • It is known as chénxiāng (沉香) in Chinese, "Cham Heong" in Cantonesetrầm hương[12] in Vietnamese, and jinkō (沈香) in Japanese; all meaning "deep scent" and alluding to its intense scent. In Japan, there are several grades of jinkō, the highest of which is known as kyara (伽羅).[13]
  • Both agarwood and its resin distillate/extracts are known as oud (عود) in Arabic (literally "rod/stick") and used to describe agarwood in Arab countries.[14] Western perfumers also often use agarwood essential oil under the name "oud" or "oudh".[15]
  • In Europe it was referred to as Lignum aquila (eagle-wood) or Agilawood, from similarity to Tamil-Malayalam aghil, deriving from Sanskrit agaru.
  • In Papua New Guinea it is called "ghara" or eagle wood.[citation needed]
  • In Thai it is known as "Mai Krishna" (ไม้กฤษณา).[21]
  • In Tamil it is called "akil" (அகில்) though what was referred in ancient Tamil literature could well be Excoecaria agallocha.
  • In Laos it is known as "Mai Ketsana" (ໄມ້ເກດສະໜາ).[22]
  • In Myanmar (Burma) it is known as "Thit Mhwae".
  • In Sri Lanka Agarwood producing Gyrinops walla tree is known as "Walla Patta" (වල්ල පට්ට)
- 土沉香,現今也遭遇同一命運 。其黑色芳香,脂膏凝結為塊,入 水能沉,故名 「沉香」;不沉不浮 與水平的,則只稱作 「棧香」。佛 經名為 「阿伽嚧香」。通常,樹心 部位受到外傷或真菌感染刺激,會 大量分泌香氣濃郁的樹脂,過程稱 為 「結香」。伐者甚至鑽孔,注入 菌液,增加結香速度與產量。據《 世說新語》載,昔日巨富石崇最喜 此種香氣,大宅廁所也終日薰香。http://paper.takungpao.com/resfile/PDF/20190215/PDF/b11_screen.pdf

柯巴脂  Copal is a name given to tree resin, particularly the aromatic resins from the copal tree Protium copal (Burseraceae) used by the cultures of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica as ceremonially burned incense and for other purposes.[1] More generally, the term copal describes resinous substances in an intermediate stage of polymerization and hardening between "gummier" resins and amber. The word copal is derived from the Nahuatl language word copalli, meaning "incense". although the word itself has been demonstrated to be a loanword to Mayan from Mixe–Zoquean languages.[citation neededCopal is still used by a number of indigenous peoples of Mexico and Central America as an incense, during sweat lodge ceremonies and sacred mushroom ceremonies.[3][better source needed] It is available in different forms. The hard, amber-like yellow copal is a less expensive version. The white copal, a hard, milky, sticky substance, is a more expensive version of the same resin. Copal resin from Hymenaea verrucosa (Fabaceae) is found in East Africa and is used in incense. By the 18th century, Europeans found it to be a valuable ingredient in making a good wood varnish. It became widely used in the manufacture of furniture and carriages. It was also sometimes used as a picture varnish.[4] By the late 19th and early 20th century varnish manufacturers in England and America were using it on train carriages, greatly swelling its demand. In 1859 Americans consumed 68 percent of the East African trade, which was controlled through the Sultan of Zanzibar, with Germany receiving 24 percent. The American Civil War and the creation of the Suez Canal led to Germany, India and Hong Kong taking the majority by the end of that century. East Africa apparently had a higher amount of subfossil copal, which is found one or two meters below living copal trees, from roots of trees that may have lived thousands of years earlier. This subfossil copal produces a harder varnish. Subfossil copal is also well known from New Zealand (kauri gum from Agathis australis (Araucariaceae)), Japan, the Dominican Republic, Colombia and Madagascar. It often has inclusions and is sometimes sold as "young amber". Copal can be easily distinguished from genuine amber by its lighter citrine colour and its surface getting tacky with a drop of acetone or chloroform. Copal that is partly mineralized is known as copaline.
阿拉伯乳香,又名神聖乳香   Boswellia sacra (commonly known as frankincense or olibanum-tree) is a tree in the Burseraceae family. It is the primary tree in the genus Boswellia from which frankincense, a resinous dried sap, is harvested. It is native to the Arabian Peninsula (OmanYemen), and northeastern Africa (Somalia).The trees start producing resin when they are about 8 to 10 years old.The resin is extracted by making a small, shallow incision on the trunk or branches of the tree or by removing a portion of the crust of it. The resin is drained as a milky substance that coagulates in contact with air and is collected by hand. Growing conditions vary significantly, affecting both tree development and resin produced. Trees in the narrow fog-laden zone where the desert meets Dhofar mountain range, a region known as the Nejd, grow extremely slowly and produce very high quality resin in large, white clumps. Not surprisingly, Omanis and other Gulf State Arabs consider this to be superior to all other resins produced in North and Northeast Africa, India, and Asia, and it is priced accordingly.
- oman
  • "Omani Luban"is the name of the species of frankincense that grows in Oman. "Hojari" frankincense is Boswellia sacra frankincense that grows and is harvested from a specific area in the wild of Dhofar mountains South Oman. Harvesters use special knife to make cuts in mature tree bark and wait over weeks for resin to bleed from the tree. Each tree may produce 2 kg of frankincense sap per year. Trees are harvested on alternative rhythm so let to rest 2 years later on."Luban" is an aromatic resin used in incense and perfumes https://www.jetro.go.jp/ttppoas/anken/0001169000/1169347_e.html
  • 一些阿拉伯民眾正在使用乳香來抵禦病毒侵襲。乳香是從原產阿拉伯乳香樹上採集來的奇異樹脂,它既是上好香料,也是彌足珍貴的外來中藥。通常,阿拉伯婦女喜歡把洗乾淨的衣服披在架子上,下面放上小香爐,爐裏燃兩小塊木炭,然後把幾粒乳香投入爐中進行熏香。穿上這樣的衣服,能驅趕蚊子、預防西尼羅河病毒及瘧疾、登革熱等由蚊子傳播的疾病。約翰.霍普金斯大學和耶路撒冷的希伯來大學的科學家研究表明,燃燒乳香有助於緩解焦慮和抑鬱,慕尼黑大學發現乳香有抗炎的特性。阿拉伯醫生阿維森納曾建議將乳香作為治療感染和疾病的補救措施,希臘醫師曾使用乳香治療多種疾病。乳香的醫療作用也曾出現在敘利亞和穆斯林醫學文本中。此外,乳香也是非常有效的治療關節痛和關節炎的天然藥物。乳香經萃取成為精油,在治療痤瘡、細菌和真菌感染及撫平傷口與疤痕方面,已成為現代芳香療法的一面旗幟。因為乳香的香氛保持相當持久,熏過的衣物穿在身上,整個人便被包裹在縷縷芳香中,渾身上下有一種說不出的舒坦。阿曼與沙特阿拉伯、伊朗及也門毗鄰,是阿拉伯半島中唯一擁有海灘、山地和沙漠的國家。阿曼是世界上最高等的乳香產地。乳香每年春、夏季均可採收,以春季為盛產期。採收時,從乳香樹幹皮部由下向上順序切口,並開一狹溝,使樹脂從傷口緩慢滲出,流入溝中,數天後凝成乾硬的固體,收取後即可使用。阿曼乳香作為上帝賜予人類的妙物,充滿了無限的神奇。天然野生的乳香樹,越是乾旱貧瘠越是品質優異。阿曼南部佐法爾山脈北端的內格德高原,正好滿足這種奇特要求:粗糙的石灰石土壤、灼熱的天氣,還有清晨露珠的滋潤。正是這樣一種特殊環境,卻產出了世界上最優質的乳香,據說一株乳香樹每年可刮下10至20公斤的乳香。著名希臘歷史學家希羅多德在傳世名作《歷史》中,曾提到過阿曼乳香:「舉國上下到處飄盪、散發着絕妙的甜香。」阿曼最優質的乳香被稱為「銀香」。乳香對阿曼人來說,就像一日三餐一樣不可或缺。把幾粒白色乳香投入爐中,一絲絲香氣冉冉升起,不但會將衣物熏得香氣襲人,而且家中充盈着溫馨浪漫的香氛。阿曼女士或部分男士,喜歡身體前傾,靠近小香爐,使得香氣滲透進他們的長袍、衣服或皮膚,因小香爐內燃燒着令人銷魂的乳香香片。阿曼人對乳香癡迷有加,還有一個特殊表現,就是阿曼男裝與其他阿拉伯人的顯著區別--阿曼人長袍領口處垂下一條長15厘米的纓穗,那是專門用來醮乳香香水的。阿曼人行走時,有一份香氣從飛揚的衣裙間飄出,無法言傳,這便是乳香的特殊魅力。當然在閉目養神中燃燒乳香,可於裊裊香氣中通往神聖境地,帶領人向心內轉移。傳說中,使者向耶穌獻上三份禮物:乳香、沒藥與黃金,乳香被列為「白色黃金」。生產乳香的乳香樹是橄欖科落葉喬木,廣布於南阿拉伯及紅海、阿頓灣沿岸。乳香樹有着如紙般的樹皮,而樹皮裏便是它的汁液,當樹皮被割開一個小切口,樹脂從乳香樹幹中緩緩滴出,如同乳液一般。新鮮樹脂的顏色呈乳白色,凝固後黃色或微紅,呈乳頭狀,加少量水可研磨成白色或黃白色乳液或半透明晶塊。因乳香樹流出的樹脂形如眼淚,亦被稱為「上帝的眼淚」。乳香香氣清盈雅緻,聞之能讓人感受到如在宗教廟宇殿堂般的神聖氣息,具有安撫憤怒、驚恐、抑鬱等情緒的神奇作用。埃及人認為,乳香最接近神的氣味,可以引渡靈魂的指引,在宗教儀式上多使用。1922年,考古學家在埃及法老王圖坦卡門的陵墓發現了一個密封的陶罐,裏面裝着超過3,000多年卻依然散發香氣的軟膏,經分析其主要成分就是乳香。中國南方氣候潮濕,蚊蟲孳生,從戰國時期開始,為消毒和驅除異味,各地便有了在室內熏香的習俗。早期熏香採用的是本土所產香料,如詩人屈原詩歌中便記載了江蘺、辟芷、申椒、菌桂、木蘭、揭車、杜衡、辛夷等十餘種香草。但這類香料焚燃後香氣散發快,難以保持持久。從漢代開始,廣州地區所使用的香料出現了進口於「塗魂國」的乳香,適宜置於炭火中長期陰燃。「塗魂國」為今阿曼南部佐法爾省港口城市米爾巴特一帶,是著名的乳香產地。雖東非索馬里和埃塞俄比亞也出產乳香,但質量最好、產量最高的乳香還是出自阿曼。西漢時,乳香被當作香料在宮廷使用,東晉葛洪《西京雜記》記載,漢成帝、皇后趙飛燕住昭陽殿,「其中雜熏諸香,餘香百日不歇」。如此持久的香氣,用的就是阿曼乳香。至唐代,乳香被用作中藥上品,宋代官方所編《聖惠方》中以香藥命名之方劑即達120方之多,如乳香丸、沉香散、木香散等,其中以乳香最為出名。宋代楊萬里在《甲子初春即事》裏,描述了他本人燃燒乳香後引來蜂蝶流連的趣事:「老子燒香罷,蜂兒作隊來。徘徊繞襟袖,將謂是花開。」此外,晏殊的「別殿香三炷,斜廊酒一杯」、薛抗「焚香坐清晝,此心自如如」、許尚「廳左清閒處,金猊罩寶香」,都是寫乳香縷縷奇香的。中國傳統文化「琴棋書畫詩酒茶」,到了宋朝又加一個「香」,乳香成為人們陶冶情操、頤養性情的必需品。乳香多呈小型乳頭狀、淚滴狀顆粒或不規則塊狀,長0.5至3厘米,常溫下質脆,遇熱變軟,可互相黏連;聞之氣微芳香,口嚐味微苦,有微微香辣感,嚼之後先破碎成小塊,迅即軟化成膠塊,黏附於牙齒。中醫上,乳香性溫,味辛、苦,具有調氣活血、定痛、追毒的功效,用於治療氣血凝滯、心腹疼痛、癰瘡腫毒、跌打損傷、痛經、產後瘀血刺痛等症,明李時珍《本草綱目》云其為「癰疽瘡瘍、心腹痛要藥」。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2021/01/28/a26-0128.pdf

- 四十八歲的埃利希(Guy Erlich)在猶太殖民區阿爾莫格附近山上,栽種多款植物。他的心願是讓古羅馬時代、見諸《聖經》的「基列的乳香(Balm of Gilead)」再度面世。埃利希認為,古希臘醫學家蓋倫曾經以它治療創傷及感染。據《新約聖經》記載,東方三博士曾向初生的耶穌獻上乳香。埃利希稱成功以阿拉伯乳香樹(Boswellia Trees)的花蜜調製出乳香,並在農場內出售,每公斤售價達一千美元(約七千八百港元)。埃利希聲稱,已成功複製第一聖殿至第二聖殿時期的香水,更打趣說把兩者混合,便是第三聖殿的香水。根據猶太教傳統,彌賽亞救世主降臨時,便會重建第三聖殿。https://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20190824/00180_029.html

Gandha: the Hindi or Sanskrit word गंध, meaning smell or fragrance. Gandha may also refer to:
  • Gandha-Woundou, a town in northern Guinea
  • Gandhamardhan hills, is a hill in Odisha, india.
  • located in between Balangir and Bargarh district of OdishaIndia. This hill is well known for medicinal plants. There is a Bauxite reserve which is planned for exploration by the state government through a private venture.This hill also has a lot of historic importance as it was once a seat of Buddhist culture. To date many ruins are found on the plateau at the hilltop. According to Hindu theology, Lord Hanuman carried this hill on his shoulders from Himalayas to save the life of Lakshman. In the Tretaya Yug (the Silver Age), Sushena (the expert physician in the Vanara Sena that followed Ram) had suggested Vir Hanuman to bring Bisalyakarani ere dawn, so that Laxman would rise back to life. It was in the middle of the war between Lord Ram and Ravan. Hanuman failed to identify the particular herb and carried on his shoulders a huge Himalayan mass. While flying above and proceeding toward Lanka (the kingdom of Ravan), a portion dropped down. Gandhamardan is synonymous to that portion only. At the northern slope of this hill the Nrusinghanath Temple is located; whereas on the southern slope of this hill is the famous Harishankar Temple.Sage Drona residing on this mountain belonging to the Mahabharat period used to deliver art of weaponry to the selected few pupils and he was famous for it across the country. The pupils educated and trained in the art of warfare were feared by many warriors of that time. Glowing tributes were paid to Hiuen T’sang, the champion Chinese traveler, who was attracted by the scenic splendour of Gandhamardan. He has spoken of the flowering Buddhist University of Parimalgiri (po-lo-mo-lo-ki-li), which had its campus on the picturesque Gandhamardan hills.
佩香囊,則不僅可以驅邪,還有防病保健的功效。所謂聞香識人,淡雅的香氣,不僅代表個人品格、習性,還能夠彰顯氣質、品味。所謂香囊,是將芳香開竅之中草藥製成藥末,裝在特製的布袋中,外包絲布,再以五色絲線弦扣成索,做成各種不同形狀,結成一串,形形色色,玲瓏雅致。在胸前、腰際、臍中等處佩戴起來,有清香、驅蟲、避瘟、防病的功能。端午節,小孩佩香囊,辟邪驅瘟,點綴襟頭;老人佩香囊,也有防病健身之功效;年輕人送香囊予戀人,可表忠貞之心。從氣味和養生來講,總有一款香氣適合你。端午的香囊,大抵以香料藥為主,比如蒼朮、藿香、吳茱萸、艾葉、肉桂、砂仁、雄黃、冰片、樟腦等等。不同的香料適合不同的體質,既有淡淡草本香氣,又可扶正祛邪。選用的草本植物,大多具有散風驅寒、健脾和胃、理氣止痛、通九竅之功能,其中揮發油,氣味清香純正、持久,也可抑制細菌和病毒、黴菌等。http://paper.takungpao.com/resfile/PDF/20190609/PDF/a20_screen.pdf

Potpourri /ˌppʊˈr/ is a mixture of dried, naturally fragrant plant materials, used to provide a gentle natural scent, commonly in residential settings. It is often placed in a decorative bowl. The word "potpourri" comes into English from the French word pot-pourri. The French term has two connotations. It is the French name for a Spanish stew with a wide variety of ingredients called "olla podrida", a specialty of the town of Burgos. The word was taken and copied by the French military during the Napoleonic occupation of Burgos (1808–1813). The word pot in French has the same meaning as it does in Spanish and English, while the word pourri means rotten.Pot-pourri was used in rooms since ancient times, in a variety of ways, including just scattering them on floors. In early 17th-century France, fresh herbs and flowers were gathered—beginning in spring and continuing throughout the summer. The herbs were left for a day or two to become limp, then layered with coarse sea salt. The aging mixture was stirred occasionally as layers were added to it. Often the mixture would ferment or even mold as the summer went by. In fall, spices would be added to the unsightly grey mix until a pleasant fragrance was achieved. Then, scent preserving fixatives (see below) were added. The finished potpourri was set out in special pots with perforated lids to perfume rooms.

Guidelines
-http://www.blogarama.com/frame?siteId=71728&postid=5896754 
IFRA Guidelines for Essential Oil Use in Soap

英媒前日報道,來自倫敦大學學院、英國安格里亞魯斯金大學,以及歐洲歷史教育機構的跨學科專家,展開名為「氣味歐洲」(Odeuropa﹚的研究計劃,開發AI整理7種語言的古老書籍,搜尋有關氣味的描述和當時的歷史。團隊將這些資料整合成一個網上百科全書,介紹每一種味道的來源和用途,例如迷迭香曾被用於預防瘟疫,而煙草則是歐洲18世紀盛行的味道等。這些氣味的資訊可以應用在博物館中,讓參觀者有更真實的體驗。研究亦計劃跟化學家和香水師合作,製作這些氣味的真實版本。https://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20201119/00180_036.html

company
François Antoine Léon Chiris, né à Grasse le  et mort à Paris le , est un industriel de la parfumerie et un homme politique français du xixe siècle, député et sénateur des Alpes-Maritimessous la Troisième République.

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