- International Fur Trade Federation
Company
- WGSN http://www.wgsn.com/about-wgsn
- TCF Global http://www.tcfglobal.com/index.php
Yarn
- Yarn can be, and is, spun from a wide variety of materials, including natural fibers such asanimal, plant, and mineral fibers, and synthetic fibers. It was probably first made from plant fibers, but animal fibers soon followed. The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as S-twist or Z-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch). Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or plied to form a thicker yarn. Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist. This is a cultural preference differing in some areas but surprisingly common. Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as singles without plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using acenter-pull ball, where one end feeds from within a ball of yarn while the other end feeds from the outside. So-called "Andean" plying, in which the single is first wound around one hand in a specific manner that allows unwinding both ends at once without tangling, is another way to ply smaller amounts of yarn. The name comes from a method used by Andean spinners to manage and splice unevenly matched singles being plied from multiple spindles. "Navajo" (aka "chain-") plying is another method of producing a three-ply yarn, in which one strand of singles is looped around itself in a manner similar to crochet and the resulting three parallel strands twisted together. This method is often used to keep colors together on singles dyed in sequential colors. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.
Cotton
- a common name for cotton cloth during the 17th and early 18th c was calico. The word "stuffs" was also used. Each region of india produced its own signature textiles. e.g. surat was known for baftas, undecorated cloth that was often dyed red or blue; the coromandel coast produced pintadoes, a painted cloth, and the famous chintzes, which were cotton fabrics, often featuring elaborate floral motifs, printed in red, indigo, green and yellow. Clothing, especially dresses, made of chintz became all the rage by the turn of 18th c. This period was also the height of the chinoiserie craze and so the company, responding to its customers' desires for chinese exotica, ordered chintzes that combined chinese, indian, and european patterns. Because it was relatively inexpensive, at least in small quantities, servants and the middling sort were the first to wear chintz, but by the 1690s royalty and aristocracy had also adopted it. Large chintzes that were used as curtains and bedspreads were called palampores and remained popular well into the 18th c. The bengal region was famous for its fine, light muslin.
- cotton textiles became popular because, unlike wool, they could be dyed and printed in vivid colors that did not run when washed. It was relatively cheap.
- Gossypium barbadense, also known as extra-long staple (ELS) cotton, is a species of cotton plant that has been cultivated to have ELS fibres – fibres longer than 34 millimetres (1
3⁄8 in) – which are associated with high quality cotton cloth. The species is a tropical, frost-sensitive perennial that produces yellow flowers and has black seeds. It grows as a small, bushy tree and yields cotton with unusually long, silky fibers. To grow, it requires full sun and high humidity and rainfall. This plant contains the chemical gossypol, which reduces its susceptibility to insect and fungal damage. Varieties of ELS cotton include: West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association (WISICA) Sea Island, American Pima, Egyptian ELS Gizas, Indian Suvin and Chinese Xinjiang. The name Pima was applied in honor of the Pima Indians, who helped raise the cotton on USDA experimental farms in Arizona in the early 1900s. The first clear sign of domestication of this cotton species comes from the Early Valdivia phase site of Real Alto on the coast of Ecuador (4400 BCE) and from Ancon, on the Peruvian coast, where cotton bolls dating to 4200 BCE were found. According to other accounts, Real Alto cotton is dated to 3500–3000 BCE, and the oldest coastal Peru cotton is dated 2500 BCE. By 1000 BCE, Peruvian cotton bolls were indistinguishable from modern cultivars of G. barbadense. Native Americans grew cotton widely throughout South America and in the West Indies, where Christopher Columbus encountered it. English colonists established cotton in the West Indies as a commercial plantation crop tended by enslaved workers imported from West Africa. By the 1650s, Barbados had become the first British West Indies colony to export cotton to England and Europe.
- 长绒棉因纤维较长而得名，又称海岛棉，为一种栽培棉种，锦葵科棉属。长绒棉生长期长，需要的热量大，在热量的条件相同的情况下，长绒棉的生长期比陆地棉长10—15 天。原产南美，后传入北美洲的东南沿海岛屿，解放后，我国从国外引种在河北(邢台；衡水；邯郸)、山东(部分)、新疆的吐鲁番盆地、塔里木盆地、都获得成功。国际主产区：主要有埃及、苏丹、前苏联、美国、摩洛哥等国内主产区：河北东部地区、山东西部地区、新疆吐鲁番盆地、塔里木盆地的阿克苏、巴音郭楞、喀什等地。
- uk- 长绒棉因纤维较长而得名，又称海岛棉，为一种栽培棉种，锦葵科棉属。长绒棉生长期长，需要的热量大，在热量的条件相同的情况下，长绒棉的生长期比陆地棉长10—15 天。原产南美，后传入北美洲的东南沿海岛屿，解放后，我国从国外引种在河北(邢台；衡水；邯郸)、山东(部分)、新疆的吐鲁番盆地、塔里木盆地、都获得成功。国际主产区：主要有埃及、苏丹、前苏联、美国、摩洛哥等国内主产区：河北东部地区、山东西部地区、新疆吐鲁番盆地、塔里木盆地的阿克苏、巴音郭楞、喀什等地。
- the east india company was allowed to sell unfinished and white cotton cloth to be dyed and printed in england. This loophole stimulated a new domestic printing industry. By 1711 more than one million yards of calico were printed in england.
- In 1721, the use and sale of almost all cotton textiles, whether plain or printed, was banned, a prohibition that was not lifted until 1774. It was legal, however, to manufacture and sell mixed textiles, such as fustian, a cotton-linen cloth that became a favorite source of cheap clothing until the return of all-cotton clothing toward the end of the century.
- The east india company was allowed to sell pure cotton textiles for re-export, mostly as coarse, striped "guinea cloth" for the slave trade or as softer calicos for american markets. The company did not itsefl trade with africa or the american colonies - that trade was given to other merchants, such as the royal african company - but indian cloth accounting for about 27pc of all british exports to africa during the 18th c.
- the restrictions placed on imported textiles gave rise to a domestic industry situated, for most part, in lancashire. By end of the life of east india company, india had become a major market for english-made cloth, which decimated indigenous manufacturing.
- online resource
- http://www.organiccotton.org
silk worm
- 憍奢耶，梵语kauśeya，巴利语kosseyya，系指野蚕之茧。以野蚕之丝作衣，称为憍奢耶衣，即绢衣。又作憍赊耶衣、高世耶衣、憍施耶衣、憍舍耶衣、俱舍衣。意译为虫衣、蚕衣。在《七佛经》中作‘憍尸衣’。诸律之中，三十舍堕法之第十一有憍奢耶敷具之戒。《十诵律》卷七载有佛陀制此戒之因缘，谓拘睒弥比丘作新憍奢耶敷具，想乞绵、缕、衣、茧等，然线、缕价贵，因须多杀蚕始成。比丘数数乞，致使诸居士厌患而呵责（大二三·四七下）：‘诸比丘乞绵、乞缕、乞衣、乞茧，擘治引贮，多事多务，妨废读经、坐禅、行道，是中我等失利供养，是难满、难养、无厌足人。’佛陀闻悉，乃制定不能以新憍奢耶作敷具之戒，若作之，则犯尼萨耆波逸提罪。其中，关于敷具之解说，于《萨婆多毗尼毗婆沙》卷五谓敷具乃指三衣，然《南海寄归内法传》卷二衣食所须条，则谓敷具非指三衣。[四分律卷七、五分律卷五、有部毗奈耶卷二十、摩诃僧祗律卷九、大般涅槃经集解卷二、大唐西域记卷二、玄应音义卷一、卷十、慧琳音义卷二十五]
- 憍奢耶，梵语kauśeya，巴利语kosseyya，系指野蚕之茧。以野蚕之丝作衣，称为憍奢耶衣，即绢衣。又作憍赊耶衣、高世耶衣、憍施耶衣、憍舍耶衣、俱舍衣。意译为虫衣、蚕衣。在《七佛经》中作‘憍尸衣’。诸律之中，三十舍堕法之第十一有憍奢耶敷具之戒。《十诵律》卷七载有佛陀制此戒之因缘，谓拘睒弥比丘作新憍奢耶敷具，想乞绵、缕、衣、茧等，然线、缕价贵，因须多杀蚕始成。比丘数数乞，致使诸居士厌患而呵责（大二三·四七下）：‘诸比丘乞绵、乞缕、乞衣、乞茧，擘治引贮，多事多务，妨废读经、坐禅、行道，是中我等失利供养，是难满、难养、无厌足人。’佛陀闻悉，乃制定不能以新憍奢耶作敷具之戒，若作之，则犯尼萨耆波逸提罪。其中，关于敷具之解说，于《萨婆多毗尼毗婆沙》卷五谓敷具乃指三衣，然《南海寄归内法传》卷二衣食所须条，则谓敷具非指三衣。[四分律卷七、五分律卷五、有部毗奈耶卷二十、摩诃僧祗律卷九、大般涅槃经集解卷二、大唐西域记卷二、玄应音义卷一、卷十、慧琳音义卷二十五]
- 据西晋崔豹《古今注》记载：“汉元帝永光四年（公元前40年），东莱郡东牟山有野蚕成茧，茧生蛾，蛾生卵，卵着石，收得万余石，民以为嫘。”东牟山，在今牟平境内，这是牟平柞蚕茧丝的最早记载。宋王禹偁有诗云：“野茧自成蚕，缫络为山绸，此物何所许，莱夷负海州（海州，即今牟平）。”https://new.qq.com/rain/a/20190531A0QRZP
-城市大學學者胡金蓮近十年來致力從事仿生蜘蛛絲研究，模擬蛛絲高韌性、形狀記憶和水分收集能力等不同特點，未來期望能以產業化為目標，製作如防彈衣、降落傘等精良產品。 針對蜘蛛絲兼具輕巧和堅韌特性，作為衣服物料將可提供強大的保護能力，「據說英女皇曾有一雙蜘蛛絲手套，那當然可以防割手；以往亦曾有傳聞，有人因穿了蜘蛛絲背心保住一命，中槍後生還」，胡金蓮指，以仿生蜘蛛絲造防彈衣，是很多人希望可以達成的目標，「因它本身會有很多特別要求，需要真正高性能的材料」；另一方面，內地亦有機構找她製作降落傘的材料，足見箇中價值。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2020/12/17/a09-1217.pdf
Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced primarily from plants in the genus Corchorus, which was once classified with the family Tiliaceae, and more recently with Malvaceae. The primary source of the fiber is Corchorus olitorius, but it is considered inferior to Corchorus capsularis. "Jute" is the name of the plant or fiber that is used to make burlap, hessian or gunny cloth. Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibers in existence and it is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibers are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin. It falls into the bast fiber category (fiber collected from bast, the phloem of the plant, sometimes called the "skin") along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fiber is raw jute. The fibers are off-white to brown, and 1–4 metres (3–13 feet) long. Jute is also called the golden fiber for its color and high cash value.
- For centuries, jute has been an integral part of the culture of East Bengal and some parts of West Bengal, precisely in the southwest of Bangladesh. Since the seventeenth century the British started trading in jute. During the reign of the British Empire jute was also used in the military. British jute barons grew rich processing jute and selling manufactured products made from jute. Dundee Jute Barons and the British East India Company set up many jute mills in Bengal and by 1895 jute industries in Bengal overtook the Scottish jute trade. Many Scots emigrated to Bengal to set up jute factories. More than a billion jute sandbags were exported from Bengal to the trenches during World War I and also exported to the United States southern region to bag cotton. It was used in the fishing, construction, art and the arms industry. Initially, due to its texture, it could only be processed by hand until it was discovered in Dundee that by treating it with whale oil, it could be treated by machine.[4] The industry boomed throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries ("jute weaver" was a recognised trade occupation in the 1900 UK census), but this trade had largely ceased by about 1970 due to the emergence of synthetic fibers. In the 21st century, jute again rose to be an important crop for export around the world in contrast to synthetic fiber, mainly from Bangladesh.
hemp fabric
- https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/article/3031214/how-brands-patagonia-are-using-regenerative-agriculture
polyester
- Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include naturally occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as synthetics such as polybutyrate. Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegradable, but most synthetic polyesters are not. The material is used extensively in clothing. Depending on the chemical structure, polyester can be a thermoplastic or thermoset. There are also polyester resins cured by hardeners; however, the most common polyesters are thermoplastics. Fabrics woven or knitted from polyester thread or yarn are used extensively in apparel and home furnishings, from shirts and pants to jackets and hats, bed sheets, blankets, upholstered furniture and computer mouse mats. Industrial polyester fibers, yarns and ropes are used in car tire reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts, safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption. Polyester fiber is used as cushioning and insulating material in pillows, comforters and upholstery padding. Polyester fabrics are highly stain-resistant—in fact, the only class of dyes which can be used to alter the color of polyester fabric are what are known as disperse dyes.
Wool
- uk
- for many centuries wool had been a source of english wealth, and the wool industry remained politically powerful. Wool was so important to the nation that the lord speaker of the house of lords used (and still uses) a woolsack as his seat. Danger to industry began to grow in 1660s as more and more europeans began to wear and use cotton, prompting the backers of wool, both inside and outside of parliament, to organise. Between 1666 and 1680 several laws were passed to try to force the english to use wool. Import duties on cotton were increased to 35 pc by 1700 in the hope that this would discourage the use of imported textiles. In 1701 the parliament banned the wearing of certain kinds of cotton. This led to smuggling of large quantities of cotton piece goods.
- ********https://www.quora.com/In-medieval-England-the-Wool-trade-was-considered-the-backbone-of-the-English-economy-being-exported-throughout-Europe-Why-was-English-wool-so-sought-after-and-why-couldn-t-the-rest-of-Europe-just-raise-their-own
- John Macarthur (1767 – 10 April 1834[1][2][3][4]) was a British army officer, entrepreneur, politician, architect and pioneer of settlement in Australia. Macarthur is recognised as the pioneer of the wool industry that was to boom in Australia in the early 19th century and become a trademark of the nation. He is noted as the architect Farm House, his own residence in Parramatta, and as the man who commissioned architect John Verge to design Camden Park Estate in Camden, in New South Wales.At Elizabeth Farm in 1794 he began his first experiments in improving wool growth by crossing hair-bearing Bengal ewes from India with Irish wool rams. Macarthur visited England in 1801, taking specimens of the pure Merino wool, and of the best of the crossbred, and submitted them to a Committee of Manufacturers who reported that the Merino was equal to any Spanish Wool, and the crossbred of considerable value. This encouraged him to purchase rams and a ewe from the Royal Flock at Kew. By 1801, Macarthur was the largest sheep rearer in the colony, although he was certainly not the only landowner to have experimented with the breeding of fine-wooled sheep.
- 内蒙古白绒山羊是由蒙古山羊经过长期选育而形成的绒肉兼用型地方良种，产于内蒙古西部地区，分为巴彦淖尔市的二狼山型、鄂尔多斯市的阿尔巴斯型和阿拉善左旗的阿拉善型三个类群。 绒山羊被毛为全白色，由上层的粗毛和下层的绒毛组成。
- 在聽證會現場美國時裝企業Kenneth Cole總裁施耐德（Marc Schneider）指出，25%的關稅會抹去所有的利潤空間，並造成裁員現象。如果選擇中國以外的採購渠道，該公司產品不僅會漲價，「質量也會下滑」。羊絨進口商Quinn Apparel稱其反對關稅的目的，更多是基於「地理角度」：該公司銷售的一種淡色羊絨只能在中國內蒙古地區採購，這種羊絨產於阿拉善白絨山羊。中國中央電視台《農廣天地》曾於2012年10月介紹過這種山羊。牠所生產的羊絨纖維細長、手感柔軟、拉力大、光澤好、顏色正，被譽為「纖維寶石」，具有高經濟價值。現場美國官員還向這家公司CEO克洛夫（Jean Kolloff）確認，是不是只有中國才有這種羊絨，因為「蒙古國也產羊絨」。 克羅夫回答：「蒙古國的羊絨一般是棕色、黑色。」而這種白色羊絨只有內蒙古才有。明尼蘇達州一家嬰兒用品生產商Regalo Baby的總裁弗朗奈里（Mark Flannery）指出，若強行將生產轉移至越南，將會帶來50%的額外成本；墨西哥產線的額外成本甚至比50%還要多--相比之下，不選擇搬出中國的成本，也就25%的關稅。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2019/06/19/a16-0619.pdf
- rws
- Textile Exchange is excited to announce the release of the first draft of the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) for Public Stakeholder Review by interested parties. This is an important opportunity for the public to give input into the standard, and ensure that it meets its goals and delivers value to the wool industry. The RWS (responsiblewool.org) is intended to be a global benchmark for animal welfare and land management practices in sheep farming. Wool owes its unique properties to the sheep that grow it, and we owe it to the sheep to ensure their welfare is protected. To this end, Textile Exchange started an International Working Group to develop the Responsible Wool Standard. The standard has been written through an open, multi-stakeholder process, with representation from a broad spectrum of interested parties, including animal welfare groups, farmers, wool suppliers, and brands and supply industry associations, covering both apparel and home categories. Work on the standard began in early 2014, and has involved the generous input of multiple experts alongside the support and engagement of brands and retailers. Pilot audits have been were conducted in Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Austria, United States and the UK, each providing valuable information used to refine the requirements and refine the auditing and certification approach.http://www.streetinsider.com/dr/news.php?id=11322668
- 美國一間戶外服裝公司，最近利用最新的編織技術，將羊毛織製成一種全天候適用的衣料，並以此製成全天候外套系列「NatureDry」。https://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20200602/00180_033.html
- [gc pang and h toth] felt is used by mongolians to cover the ger and to make rugs, saddle oads, and the linings of boots. Felt is made in the fall.
- [national geographic encyclopedia]The thick felt, or non-woven wool, used to cover gers came from the nomads’ own animals. Central Asian nomads had herds of sheep, yak, and goats. (Cashmere, for instance, one of the softest, lightest, and most valuable wools, comes from Mongolian goats.)
dye
- materials
- flame retardant dyes
- sustainability
Textile
- Textile Terms and Definitions http://www.ttandd.org/
- embroidery patterns
fabric
- types of silk https://card.weibo.com/article/m/show/id/2309404357683670065754
- Damask (/ˈdæməsk/; Arabic: دمشق) is a reversible figured fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibres, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave. Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.The production of damask was one of the five basic weaving techniques—the others being tabby, twill, lampas, and tapestry—of the Byzantine and Islamic weaving centres of the early Middle Ages.[3] Damasks derive their name from the city of Damascus—in that period a large city active both in trading (as part of the silk road) and in manufacture. Damasks became scarce after the 9th century outside Islamic Spain, but were revived in some places in the 13th century. The word "damask" first appeared in records in a Western European language in the mid-14th century in French.[5] By the 14th century, damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy. From the 14th to 16th century, most damasks were woven in one colour with a glossy warp-faced satin pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts, and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but weavers also produced wool and linen damasks.
- manta
- Muslin (/ˈmʌzlɪn/ or /ˈmjuːslɪn/[citation needed]), also mousseline, is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. They were imported into Europe from Bengal in the 17th century and were later manufactured in Scotland and England. It gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it may have been first manufactured.[2][3][4][5] Early muslin was handwoven of uncommonly delicate handspun yarn, especially in the region around Dhaka, Bengal (now Bangladesh),[3] where it may have originated.[6] It was imported into Europe for much of the 17th and early 18th centuries. Fine linen muslin was formerly known as sindon.Muslin (AmE: Muslin gauze) from French mousseline, from Italian mussolina, from Mussolo ‘Mosul’ (Mosul, Iraq, where European traders are said to have first encountered the cloth). Although this view has the fabric named after the city where Europeans first encountered it (Mosul), the fabric is believed to have originated in Dhakeshwari, now Dhaka the capital of Bangladesh.[6] In the 9th century, an Arab merchant named Sulaiman made note of the material's origin in Bengal (known as Ruhmi in Arabic). Bengali muslin was traded throughout the Muslim world, from the Middle East to Southeast Asia. In many Islamic regions, such as in Central Asia, the cloth was named Daka, after the city of Dhaka. Some believe Crusaders of the First Crusade found the cloth in the Middle East and brought it back to Europe.
- Calico (/ˈkælɪkoʊ/
; in British usage since 1505)[1] is a plain-woven textile made from unbleached and often not fully processed cotton. It may contain unseparated husk parts, for example. The fabric is far less fine than muslin, but less coarse and thick than canvas or denim. However, it is still very cheap owing to its unfinished and undyed appearance.The fabric was originally from the city of Calicut in southwestern India. It was made by the traditional weavers called cāliyans. The raw fabric was dyed and printed in bright hues, and calico prints became popular in Europe.- campeche wood
- yellow wood
- red wood
- pre-reduced synthetic dyes
- dystar
- blue connection
- archroma
- https://www.smartindigo.com/ SEDO ENGINEERING SA
- scada industries, pakistan
- flame retardant dyes
- sustainability
- In 2011, a group of major apparel, leather, and footwear brands and retailers made a shared commitment to reduce or substitute hazardous chemicals in their value chain and ensure safer handling of chemicals in the workplace for brands, the environment and workers. Arising from this collaboration, The ZDHC Gateway – Chemical Module* is an advanced search engine for chemical formulations that conform to the ZDHC MRSL (according to ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance). It helps textile, apparel and leather manufacturers find safer alternatives and substitute hazardous chemicals in the production process. www.roadmaptozero.com
Textile
- Textile Terms and Definitions http://www.ttandd.org/
- embroidery patterns
- pakistan and india https://mymodernmet.com/pakistan-india-embroidery-map/
fabric
- types of silk https://card.weibo.com/article/m/show/id/2309404357683670065754
- Damask (/ˈdæməsk/; Arabic: دمشق) is a reversible figured fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibres, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave. Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.The production of damask was one of the five basic weaving techniques—the others being tabby, twill, lampas, and tapestry—of the Byzantine and Islamic weaving centres of the early Middle Ages.[3] Damasks derive their name from the city of Damascus—in that period a large city active both in trading (as part of the silk road) and in manufacture. Damasks became scarce after the 9th century outside Islamic Spain, but were revived in some places in the 13th century. The word "damask" first appeared in records in a Western European language in the mid-14th century in French.[5] By the 14th century, damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy. From the 14th to 16th century, most damasks were woven in one colour with a glossy warp-faced satin pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts, and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but weavers also produced wool and linen damasks.
- manta
- mentioned in manuscript hunter (spanish manta)
- Muslin (/ˈmʌzlɪn/ or /ˈmjuːslɪn/[citation needed]), also mousseline, is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. They were imported into Europe from Bengal in the 17th century and were later manufactured in Scotland and England. It gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it may have been first manufactured.[2][3][4][5] Early muslin was handwoven of uncommonly delicate handspun yarn, especially in the region around Dhaka, Bengal (now Bangladesh),[3] where it may have originated.[6] It was imported into Europe for much of the 17th and early 18th centuries. Fine linen muslin was formerly known as sindon.Muslin (AmE: Muslin gauze) from French mousseline, from Italian mussolina, from Mussolo ‘Mosul’ (Mosul, Iraq, where European traders are said to have first encountered the cloth). Although this view has the fabric named after the city where Europeans first encountered it (Mosul), the fabric is believed to have originated in Dhakeshwari, now Dhaka the capital of Bangladesh.[6] In the 9th century, an Arab merchant named Sulaiman made note of the material's origin in Bengal (known as Ruhmi in Arabic). Bengali muslin was traded throughout the Muslim world, from the Middle East to Southeast Asia. In many Islamic regions, such as in Central Asia, the cloth was named Daka, after the city of Dhaka. Some believe Crusaders of the First Crusade found the cloth in the Middle East and brought it back to Europe.
- Calico (/ˈkælɪkoʊ/
- Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber. Viscose rayon is a fiber of regenerated cellulose; it is structurally similar to cotton but may be produced from a variety of plants such as soy, bamboo, and sugar cane. French scientist and industrialist Hilaire de Chardonnet (1838–1924)—who invented the first artificial textile fiber, artificial silk—created viscose.[7] British scientists Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan took out British patent no. 8,700, "Improvements in Dissolving Cellulose and Allied Compounds" in May, 1892.[8] In 1893 they formed the Viscose Syndicate to grant licences, and in 1896 formed the British Viscoid Co. Ltd. to exploit the process.The use of viscose is declining. Instead, rayon may be manufactured using the Lyocell process, which uses N-methylmorpholine N-oxide as the solvent and produces little waste product, making it relatively eco-friendly.
- Lyocell is a form of rayon which consists of cellulose fibre made from dissolving pulp (bleached wood pulp) using dry jet-wet spinning. It was developed beginning in 1972 by a team at the now defunct American Enka fibers facility at Enka, North Carolina. This development was recognised by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) in 2003 by the awarding of their Henry E. Millson Award for Invention. The operating name for the fibre inside the Enka Organization was "Newcell", and the development was carried through pilot plant scale before the work was stopped. The fibre was developed further as Tencel in the 1980s by Courtaulds Fibres in Coventry, UK and at the Grimsby, UK pilot plant.[1] The process was first commercialised at Courtaulds rayon factories at Mobile, Alabama (1990) and at the Grimsby plant (1998). In 1998, Courtaulds was acquired by Akzo Nobel, who combined the Tencel division with other fibre divisions under the Accordis banner, prior to selling them off to private equity (CVC Partners). In 2000, CVC sold the Tencel division to Lenzing AG, who combined it with their "Lenzing Lyocell" business but maintained the brand name Tencel.
- Taffeta (/ˈtæfᵻtə/; archaically spelled taffety) is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk or cuprammonium rayons. The word is Persian in origin and means "twisted woven". It is considered to be a "high-end" fabric, suitable for use in ball gowns, wedding dresses, and in interior decoration for curtains or wallcoverings. It is also widely used in the manufacture of corsets and corsetry: it yields a more starched-like type of cloth that holds its shape better than many other fabrics. An extremely thin, crisp type of taffeta is called paper taffeta. There are two distinct types of silk taffeta: yarn-dyed and piece-dyed. Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses. Shot silk taffeta was one of the most sought-after forms of Byzantine silk, and may have been the fabric known as purpura. Modern taffeta was first woven in Italy and France and until the 1950s in Japan. Warp-printed taffeta or chiné, mainly made in France from the eighteenth century onwards, is sometimes called "pompadour taffeta" after Madame de Pompadour. Today most raw silk taffeta is produced in India and Pakistan. There, even in the modern period, handlooms were long widely used, but since the 1990s it has been produced on mechanical looms in the Bangalore area. From the 1970s until the 1990s, the Jiangsu province of China produced fine silk taffetas: these were less flexible than those from Indian mills, however, which continue to dominate production. Other countries in Southeast Asia and the Middle East also produce silk taffeta, but these products are not yet equal in quality or competitiveness to those from India. The most deluxe taffetas, however, are still woven in France, Italy, Russia, and the United Kingdom.
- http://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20180521/00180_003.html wedding dress of princess diana made by taffeta
- gossamer 纱罗 silk
- [tt tsui gallery of chinese art] gossamer silk blouse with a low collar and wide sleeves wore by ladies in the high tang period
- Šantung (tkanina) in romanian
- Şantung (giyim) in turkce
- Xantungue (tecido) in portuguese
- used by contestant of project runway
- mentioned in film "the royal tailor"
- 'cho' in Chohageum stands for Chosun
- https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/arts-of-the-islamic-world-india-including-fine-rugs-carpets/a-silk-and-metal-thread-curtain-or-cover-with-the
- Dupioni (also referred to as Douppioni or Dupion) is a plain weave crisp type of silk fabric, produced by using fine thread in the warp and uneven thread reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly-woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface. It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub (cross-wise irregularity) count. Dupioni is often woven with differing colors of threads scattered through the warp and weft. This technique gives the fabric an iridescent effect, similar to but not as pronounced as shot silk taffeta. Dupioni can be woven into plaid and striped patterns; floral or other intrinsic, intricate designs are better suited for lighter-weight silks and/or those with smoother finishes, although dupioni may be embroidered in any manner desired. Along with shantung, dupioni is popular in bridal and other formal wear. It is suitable for upholstery, but if it is crafted into a curtain or drape, a substantial underlining must be used to protect the fabric from sunlight.In India, Varanasi, also known as Banaras, is one of the major manufacturers of Dupion. Weavers of nearby villagers, mainly of the Ansari community,[clarification needed] have been producing fabrics for generations. The major demands of the Indian wedding industry are met this city.
- printed cotton famous in provence and popular with frenchwoman from all social classes
- 更紗（サラサ）日本では室町時代以降、中国（明）との勘合貿易によって金襴、緞子（どんす）など、明の高級染織品が輸入された。「さらさ」の語源については諸説あり、決定的な説はない。インド北西部の港であるスラト(Surat)が語源であるとする説が古くからあるが、「スラト」と「サラサ」の音韻には差が大きく、この説は現代ではあまり支持されていない。ポルトガル語のsaraçaが語源であるとする説もある。また、16世紀末のオランダ人、リンス・ホーテンの『東方案内記』に、綿布の名としてsarasoあるいはsarassesという名称が見え、これが語源であるとする説もある。Chintz originally referred to glazed calico textiles, specifically those imported from India, printed with designs featuring flowers and other patterns in different colours, typically on a light plain background. (The name is derived from the Hindi chīnt, meaning ‘spotted’, ‘variegated’, ‘speckled’, or ‘sprayed’).[1] Since the 19th century the term has also been used for the style of floral decoration developed in those calico textiles, but then used more widely, for example on chintzware pottery and wallpaper. Chintz designs are mostly European patterns loosely derived from the style of Indian designs themselves reflecting Mughal art. A white base with floral and animal prints are its basic characteristics.Unglazed calico was traditionally called "cretonne". The word calico is derived from the name of the Indian city Calicut (Kozhikkode in native Malayalam), to which it had a manufacturing association. In contemporary language, the words "chintz" and "chintzy" can be used to refer to clothing or furnishings which are vulgar or florid in appearance, and commonly in informal speech, to refer to cheap, low quality, or gaudy things, and similarly, to personal behavior.
- chintz dresses in soviet union in 1960s https://www.rbth.com/history/332323-russian-women-20th-century
- Cambric (US: /ˈkeɪmbrɪk/,[1] UK: /ˈkeɪmbrɪk/or /ˈkæmbrɪk/),[2][3][4] or batiste, one of the finest and most dense kinds of cloth,[5] is a lightweight plain-weave cloth, originally from the French commune of Cambrai, woven in greige, then bleached, piece-dyed and often glazed or calendered. Initially it was made of linen; later, the term came to be applied to cotton fabrics as well. Cambric is used as fabric for linens, shirts, handkerchieves, ruffs, lace and needlework.[6][7] The term "cambric cloth" also applies to a stiff, usually black, open-weave cloth typically used for a dust cover on the bottom of upholstered furniture.
- Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Vegetable flannel is made from Scots pine fibre. Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a nap on one side or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. Flannel is commonly used to make tartanclothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear. The term "flannel shirt" is often used incorrectly to mean any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern.The origin of the word is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century. Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes, which was the local textile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire, Hay on Wye,[4] and Llanidloes.[5] The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling). The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury.
- Nishijin-ori (西陣織, Nishijin fabric) is a traditional textile produced in the Nishijin (西陣) district of Kamigyō-ku in Kyoto, Japan. Nishijin weaving originated in Heian-kyōto, Japan, over 1200 years ago. It uses many different types of coloured yarns, weaving them together into decorative designs. Nishijin employs very tedious and specialized procedures necessary to obtain the spectacular design, thus ensuring the quality of Nishijin weaving. In 794, Heian-kyo became the new capital city[1] and soon after the production of Nishijin-ori increased to supply the Imperial Court and aristocracy. However, the need for the materials began to decrease, causing these skilled weavers to go into business on their own rather than working for the textile offices. The demand for the material continued to dwindle during the Muromachi Period due to the Ōnin War (1467–1477), exacerbated by a string of internal conflict in Kyoto and drought over the following years,[2] where the majority of Kyoto was demolished. The people of Kyoto fled to nearby towns for safety.[3] Finally, in the 1480s the war ended and the Kyoto residents returned home,[4] established residence, and contributed to the name 'Nishijin', which means West position. This name was established due to Kyoto residents’ settlement being located on the exact piece of land the Army of Yamana Sozen had occupied during the war.[5] Another group established residence in the northern portion of Kyoto in NRDD. This northern group is known for producing 'Nerinuki', a shimmering fabric made from raw silk and scoured silk. After the war,Nishijin-ori weaving began to thrive. The weaving community supplied and provided materials for both the Imperial Courts and the samurai lords. This increased their productivity which led to improvements in the product from using new procedures to create new designs, such as the use of the gold brocade and Damask silk that originated in Ming Dynasty China.
- Khadi (pronounced [kʰaːd̪iː]; IAST: Khadi) or khaddar is handspun, hand-woven natural fiber cloth originating from India, Bangladesh and broadly used in Pakistan and India.This fabric mainly made out of cotton. The cloth is usually woven from cotton and may also include silk, or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a charkha. It is a versatile fabric, cool in summer and warm in winter. In order to improve the look, khādī/khaddar is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in fashion circles.[4] Khadi is being promoted in India by Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises.
- Corduroy is a textile with a distinct pattern, a "cord" or wale. Modern corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts. Both velvet and corduroy derive from fustian fabric.The fabric looks as if it is made from multiple cords laid parallel to each other and then stitched together. The word corduroy is from cord and duroy, a coarse woollen cloth made in England in the 18th century.日本語ではコール天と呼ばれる。由来は「cord」+「天鵞絨（てんがじゅう、ビロードの和名）」である。一般的にはコール天とコーデュロイは同一の物を示すが、テキスタイル業界の用語としては、微妙な風合いの違いとして区別される。90%以上が静岡県磐田市（旧・磐田郡福田町）で製造されている。燈芯絨，又稱燈草絨、條絨、趟絨，為表面有縱向絨條的織物面料。因燈芯絨絨條類似燈草芯，因而得名。燈芯絨原料以棉為主，也有與滌綸、腈綸、氨綸等化纖混紡的。特點是質地厚實，手感柔軟，保暖性良好。主要用途有秋冬季外套、窗簾、沙發面料、玩具、白板擦等。另外還可用於擦拭黑膠唱片。燈芯絨的吸聲效果比較好，可用於劇院、演播室、展示廳等環境，用於隔音降噪[1]。
fleece
- Polartec, is known as the inventor of modern synthetic fleece and holds over 135 patents worldwide. The company says it is committed to defending its intellectual property through any legal means available.Vertical Italian knitted fabric producer Pontetorto s.p.a and its German agent Christian Weichert, ausländische Textilvertretungen GmbH have confirmed that leading US outdoor manufacturing brand Polartec, LLC has filed a patent infringement complaint against them.
https://www.knittingindustry.com/polartec-court-action-against-italian-fabric-manufacturer-pontetorto-confirmed/
- [action asia jan/feb2018] brushed-back fleece featuring an inner surface made with biodegradable fibres
Spandex, Lycra or elastane is a synthetic fiberknown for its exceptional elasticity. It is a polyether-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1958 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont's Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. The name "spandex" is an anagram of the word "expands".[6] It is the preferred name in North America; in continental Europe it is referred to by variants of "elastane", i.e. élasthanne(France), Elastan (Germany, Sweden), elastano(Spain), elastam (Italy) and elastaan (Netherlands), and is known in the UK, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Brazil, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and Israel primarily as Lycra. Brand names for spandex include Lycra (made by Koch subsidiary Invista, previously part of DuPont), Elaspan(also Invista), Acepora (Taekwang), Creora (Hyosung), INVIYA (Indorama Corporation), ROICA and Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice), and ESPA (Toyobo).
A tarpaulin (US: /ˈtɑːrpəlɪn/ TAR-pə-lin,[1] UK: /tɑːrˈpɔːlɪn/tar-PAW-lin[2]), or tarp, is a large sheet of strong, flexible, water-resistant or waterproof material, often cloth such as canvas or polyester coated with polyurethane, or made of plastics such as polyethylene. In some places such as Australia, and in military slang, a tarp may be known as a hootch. Tarpaulins often have reinforced grommets at the corners and along the sides to form attachment points for rope, allowing them to be tied down or suspended. Inexpensive modern tarpaulins are made from woven polyethylene; this material is so associated with tarpaulins that it has become colloquially known in some quarters as polytarp.
Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step," or offset, between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern.[1] Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.Mexican fibre or Tampico as it is also known, is a leaf fibre which comes from the spiny, cactus-like lecheguilla plant that grows wild in the semi-desert upland areas of Mexico. The fibre is extracted by scraping away the pulpy matter from the freshly cut leaves. This fibre distinguishes itself by its great elasticity and resistance to temperature change, as well as to acids and caustic soda, and its fineness for polishing and grinding. It is also very water absorbent, and non-electrostatic, so that the brushes remain dust free. The description ‘Tampico’ takes its name from the port in Mexico from which the fibre is exported.http://www.jhvelthoven.com/rm-mexico.html
熔噴不織布生產關鍵技術 http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2020/12/14/b04-1214.pdf
The Jacquard machine (French: [ʒakaʁ]) is a device fitted to a power loom that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns as brocade, damask and matelassé.[3] It was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804[4], based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and Jacques Vaucanson (1740).[5] The machine was controlled by a "chain of cards"; a number of punched cards laced together into a continuous sequence.[6] Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card, with one complete card corresponding to one row of the design. Several such paper cards, generally white in color, can be seen in the images below. Chains, like Bouchon's earlier use of paper tape, allowed sequences of any length to be constructed, not limited by the size of a card. Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. The process can also be used for patterned knitwear and machine-knitted textiles, such as jerseys.This use of replaceable punched cards to control a sequence of operations is considered an important step in the history of computing hardware.
textile printing
- www.monnalisadtp.eu
smart textile
-近年來，備受關注的電致變色發展主要在衣服上的應用。電致變色材料是金屬氧化物或有機化合物薄層，在外加電場作用下，此材料通過吸收外界離子產生價態或化學組分的變化，改變自然光的反射或吸收率而實現變色。因為價態和化學組分變化均屬可逆反應，所以此材料可以在施加反向電壓時，還原到材料本身的顏色。電致變色材料的應用已在航太航空、汽車工業及智慧家居等領域大放異彩。香港紡織與成衣研發中心（HKRITA）採用改良的電鍍法，將金屬氧化物鍍在導電尼龍紗線的表層，在適當溫度下，退火處理後製成電致變色紗。這類被電解質包裹的紗線可以在低電壓激發下變色和褪色，而且變色效果明顯。與現有的電致變色紗相比，HKRITA的變色紗不失原本紗線的柔性，並且可透過紡織、編織或刺繡等工藝，便捷地織入普通衣物。HKRITA已將變色紗織入棉質衣物中製成基於衣服的智慧數字顯示器，並能通過手機應用程式遙控顯示數字資訊。相信不久將來，可以顯示即時心率體溫、氣溫和降水量的智慧服裝，以及隨着情緒變化，變換出不同色彩及圖案的衣服飾品，都會成為我們生活的一部分。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2020/12/14/b05-1214.pdf
- company
- Blackwork, sometimes historically termed Spanish blackwork, is a form of embroiderygenerally using black thread, although other colors are also used on occasion.[1]Sometimes it is counted-thread embroiderywhich is usually stitched on even-weavefabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. Scarletwork is like blackwork, except it is sewn with red thread.
Leather
- types
- waterproof leather
- magazine
- online resource
A visard (also spelled vizard) is an oval mask of black velvet, worn by travelling women in the 16th century to protect their skin from sunburn.[1] It was not held to the head by a fastening, but rather the wearer would clasp a bead attached to the interior of the mask between their teeth. The fashion of the period for wealthy women was to keep their skin pale, because a tan suggested that the bearer worked outside and was hence poor.In Venice, the visard developed into a design without a mouth hole, the moretta, and was gripped with a button between the teeth rather than a bead. The mask's prevention of speech was deliberate, intended to heighten the mystery of a masked woman even further.
A visor (also spelled vizor) is a surface that protects the eyes, such as shading them from the sun or other bright light or protecting them from objects. Nowadays many visors are transparent, but before strong transparent substances such as polycarbonate were invented, visors were opaque like a mask.
hat
- company
- google project jacquard
- E. I. du Pont de Nemours and company
- intelligent clothing ltd
- International fashion machines
- xenoma
- Blackwork, sometimes historically termed Spanish blackwork, is a form of embroiderygenerally using black thread, although other colors are also used on occasion.[1]Sometimes it is counted-thread embroiderywhich is usually stitched on even-weavefabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. Scarletwork is like blackwork, except it is sewn with red thread.
Leather
- types
- calf skin
- exotic skin
- lamb leather
- large bovine leather
- goatskin
- Shagreen is a type of rawhide consisting of rough untanned skin, formerly made from a horse's back or that of an onager (wild ass). Shagreen is now commonly made of the skins of sharks and rays. The word derives from the French chagrin and is related toItalian zigrino and Venetian sagrin, derived from the Turkicsağrı / çağrı 'rump of a horse' or the prepared skin of this part. The roughness of its texture led to the French meaning of anxiety, vexation, embarrassment, or annoyance.
- 墨西哥兩名男子早前辭工創業，利用當地盛產的仙人掌，加工製成可供製作皮包、皮鞋等的有機人造皮革物料「Desserto」。https://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/china_world/20200616/00180_015.html
- palm leather
- Morocco leather (also known as Levant, the French Maroquin, or German Saffian from Safi, a Moroccan town famous for leather) is a soft, pliable form of leather widely used for gloves and the uppers of ladies' shoes and men's low cut shoes, but traditionally associated with bookbindings, wallets, linings for fine luggage, and the like. Originally Morocco leather was imported to Europe from Morocco, and from the late 16th century it was valued in luxury bookbindings in Western countries because of its strength and because it showed off the gilding. It was also used in the Islamic world from an earlier date.However Morocco was often not the original source of the leather. Some of the highest quality Morocco leather, usually goat skin, used in book binding was sourced from Northern Nigeria.[1] The leather tends to be more famous than the breed of goat that originally produced it. The leather is sourced from the Sokoto Red breed, which is indigenous to Guinea and Sudan Savannah of Nigeria and Maradi Region in Republic of Niger.
- https://materialdistrict.com/material/palmleather/
- waterproof leather
- by dutch company stahl [ars tannery 1 supplemento ad arsutoria 438 - marzo 2019]
- formic acid
- sodium formate
- sodium sulfide
- sodium hydrosulfide
- ammonium sulphate
- ammonium chloride
- basic chrome sulphate
- magnesium sulphate
- caustic soda
- soda ash
- sodium acetate
- potassium hydroxide
- glacial acetic acid
- barium chloride
- sodium sulphite
- sodium metabisulfite
- sodium nitrite
- sodium thiosulfate
- sodium bicarbonate
- dicyandiamide
- acrylic acid
- butyl acrylate
- oxalic acid
- sodium hydrosulfite
- sodium oxalate
- sodium sulphate anhydrous
- sodium bisulphite
- sodium chlorate
- pdv salt
- potassium ferrocyanide
- calcium lignosulphonate
- thiourea
- trisodium phosphate
- sodium dihydrogen phosphate
- sodium fluorosilicate
- rongalite
- zinc sulphate
- edta
- edta disodium
- edta tetrasodium
- glyoxal
- melamine
- nature lactic acid
- boric acid
- calcium formate
- potassium formate
- zirconium sulphate
- chrome oxide green
- glycerin
- magazine
- World Leather www.leatherbiz.com
- Leather International http://www.leathermag.com/
- Leatherinsiders.com
- la conceria www.laconceria.it
- World Statistical Compendium for raw hides and skins, leather and footwear (from FAO site)
- online resource
- wiki for fur http://www.mehowiki.ru/
- Fur Fashion Guide http://www.furfashionguide.com/
- efurmedia www.efurmedia.com
A visard (also spelled vizard) is an oval mask of black velvet, worn by travelling women in the 16th century to protect their skin from sunburn.[1] It was not held to the head by a fastening, but rather the wearer would clasp a bead attached to the interior of the mask between their teeth. The fashion of the period for wealthy women was to keep their skin pale, because a tan suggested that the bearer worked outside and was hence poor.In Venice, the visard developed into a design without a mouth hole, the moretta, and was gripped with a button between the teeth rather than a bead. The mask's prevention of speech was deliberate, intended to heighten the mystery of a masked woman even further.
A visor (also spelled vizor) is a surface that protects the eyes, such as shading them from the sun or other bright light or protecting them from objects. Nowadays many visors are transparent, but before strong transparent substances such as polycarbonate were invented, visors were opaque like a mask.
hat
- 冷戰初期，蘇聯毛帽隨着軍事援助進入社會主義國家，其中國版本——55式毛帽因為雷鋒頭戴這種帽子的經典照片而被中國人稱之為「雷鋒帽」[1]。至今，蘇聯毛帽的所在國變形版本仍然是中國人民解放軍和朝鮮人民軍的制式裝備。 2014年索契冬奧會上，英國代表團頭戴蘇聯毛帽參加了開幕式。十月革命後的俄國內戰，白軍與西伯利亞最高統治者高爾察克，1918年廣泛使用的這類冬帽稱作「高爾察克帽」（kolchakovka）。 1933年，荷里活男明星W. C. Fields在電影「致命啤酒杯」中就戴着一頂高爾察克帽。高爾察克與白軍最終輸掉了內戰，蘇聯沒有繼續採用「高爾察克帽」。蘇聯紅軍沿用了內戰時期著名的布瓊尼帽，為傳統歷史英雄人物博加特耶爾尖頂頭盔造型，毛氈材質，冬季防寒效果不足。1939年冬季的蘇芬戰爭中，蘇軍大量指戰員因為衣（M35式）帽（布瓊尼帽）防寒不足而凍死凍傷。芬蘭陸軍使用的護耳冬帽「turkislakki M36」具有良好的防寒效果。戰後換裝的輕微升級的turkislakki M39冬帽，一直被芬蘭使用至今。[2]戰後，蘇聯紅軍也用模仿「turkislakki M36」的護耳冬帽取代了「布瓊尼帽」，成為第二次世界大戰蘇聯標準裝備。[3] 1941年冬季的莫斯科會戰，德軍士兵也戴上了蘇制的護耳冬帽，因為德軍自己的軍帽不足以防禦嚴寒。隨着二戰紅軍的勝利，蘇式護耳冬帽成了蘇聯的文化符號與媒體形象。1974年美國總統傑拉爾德·福特訪問蘇聯，就戴着這樣的護耳冬帽，是美國謀求從越南戰爭體面脫身的緩和政策的象徵。皇家加拿大騎警使用「regulation hat」，由麝鼠皮製成。[7][8] 替代了以前的加拿大軍用毛皮斜帽。多倫多運輸局的冬帽也是這種。挪威北部流行一種類似的帽子，稱為"bjørnefitte" The word ushanka derives from ushi (у́ши), "ears" in Russian and many Slavic languages.Hats with fur earflaps have been known for centuries, especially in the Slavic Balkancountries Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Macedonia, Bulgaria, as well as in Northeastern Italy, in the Julian March, Trieste, and surrounding areas where there has been a large Slavic population for centuries. Such hats are also seen in Scandinavian countries Sweden and Norway, in the Eurasian and European Slavic countries Russia, Ukraine, Slovenia, and in Caucasus region in Georgia and Armenia.[2] The design of ushanka with a perfectly round crown was developed in the 17th century when in central and northern Russia a hat with earflaps called treukh was worn.[3] The modern ushanka design from 1917 is also inspired by the Norwegian norvezhka, a hat which was invented by Norwegian arctic explorers. The main difference from the treukh is that the earflaps of the norvezhka were much longer. In addition, Russian Cossacks of the Kuban have influenced the design of modern Ushanka through interaction with peoples from Central Asia and Caucasus.In 1917 During the Russian Civil War, the ruler of Siberia, Aleksandr Kolchak, introduced a winter uniform hat, commonly referred to as a kolchakovka, c. 1918. It was similar to the ushanka.
- A Panama hat (toquilla straw hat) is a traditional brimmed straw hat of Ecuadorian origin. Traditionally, hats were made from the plaited leaves of the Carludovica palmata plant, known locally as the toquilla palm or jipijapa palm, although it is a palm-like plant rather than a true palm. Panama hats are light-colored, lightweight, and breathable, and often worn as accessories to summer-weight suits, such as those made of linen or silk. The tightness, the finesse of the weave, and the time spent in weaving a complete hat out of the toquilla straw characterize its quality. Beginning around the turn of the 20th century, these hats became popular as tropical and seaside accessories owing to their ease of wear and breathability.
- The pith helmet, also known as the safari helmet, sun helmet, topee, sola topee or topi[a], is a lightweight cloth-covered helmet made of sholapith. Pith helmets were often worn by European travelers and explorers, in the varying climates found in Africa, Southeast Asia, as well as the tropics, but have also been used in many other contexts. They were routinely issued to European military personnel serving overseas "in hot climates" from the mid-nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. The pith helmet was first worn by Spanish forces during the colonial era of the Spanish East Indies,[1][2] and was later adopted by the French in Indochina due to its effectiveness in protecting from damp and humid weather.[3] Subsequently, it was commonly worn by non-indigenous officers commanding locally recruited troops in the colonial armies of France, Britain, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Imperial Germany and the Netherlands, as well as civilian officials in their territories. As such it became something of a symbol of colonial rule. Helmets of a similar style (but without true pith construction) continued to be used, as late as World War II, by European and American military personnel. Such was the popularity of the pith helmet that it became a common civilian headgear for Westerners in the tropics from the end of the 19th century.
- A kippah (/kɪˈpɑː/ kih-PAH; also spelled as kippa, kipa, kipah; Hebrew: כִּיפָּה, plural: כִּיפּוֹת kippot; Yiddish: קאפל koppel or יאַרמולקע) or yarmulke (/ˈjɑːrməlkə/, /ˈjɑːməkə/) is a brimless cap, usually made of cloth, worn by Jews to fulfill the customary requirement held by Orthodox halachic authorities that the head be covered. It is usually worn by men in Orthodox communities at all times. Most synagoguesand Jewish funeral services keep a ready supply of kippot.The term kippah (Hebrew: כיפה) literally means 'dome'. The same concept is used in Islam, in which the term taqiyah, which refers to a skullcap worn for religious purposes, is derived from Persian ṭāq (طاق) which means 'arch'. The Yiddish term yarmulke is derived from Ukrainian or Polish jarmulka, though it is often associated with an Aramaic phrase (ירא מלכא) meaning 'fear the King'. Koppel is another Yiddish term, mainly used by British Jews.
- A kufi or kufi cap is a brimless, short, and rounded cap worn by men in many populations in North Africa, East Africa, Western Africa and South Asia. It is also worn by men throughout the African diaspora. It is also commonly called a "topi" or "tupi" among the Indian subcontinent.In West Africa, a kufi cap is the traditional hat for men, and is part of the national costume of most of the countries in the region. It is worn by Muslims, and African Christians. Many grandfathers and other older men wear a kufi every day to symbolize their status as wise elders, religious people, or family patriarchs. Within the United States, it has become identified primarily with persons of West African heritage, who wear it to show pride in their culture, history, and religion (whether Christianity, Islam, or Traditional African religions). Often made of kente cloth, mudcloth, or knitted or crocheted in a variety of yarns.
- 三角帽（Tricorne）是西洋服飾中的一種男用帽子，又被稱為海盜帽，由頂部俯視呈三角形而得名。三角帽發源於歐洲，自17世紀後期盛行至18世紀，在極盛期時不但是一般男性知識份子的標準行頭，也是軍人戎裝的標準配件之一。1789年的法國大革命後為雙角帽所取代。Typically made from animal fiber, the more expensive being of beaver-hair felt and the less expensive of wool felt, the hat's most distinguishing characteristic was that three sides of the brim were turned up (cocked) and either pinned, laced, or buttoned in place to form a triangle around the crown. The style served two purposes: first, it allowed stylish gentlemen to show off the most current fashions of their wigs, and thus their social status; and secondly, the cocked hat, with its folded brim, was much smaller than other hats, and therefore could be more easily tucked under an arm when going inside a building, where social etiquette dictated that a gentleman should remove his hat. Tricornes with laced sides could have the laces loosened and the sides dropped down to provide better protection from the weather, sun, and rain.The tricorne appeared as a result of the evolution of the broad-brim round hat used by Spanish soldiers in Flanders during the 17th century.[5] By pledging (binding) the brims, a triangular shape was obtained. This shape was favored by Spanish soldiers, as when standing at arms their muskets could be held at their shoulders right or left without hitting the hat brim. War broke out between France and Spain in 1667 over the Spanish Netherlands, and during the subsequent struggle its use spread to the French armies. The style was brought back to France, where its usage spread to the French population and the royal court of King Louis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as a civilian and military wear. By the end of the 17th century, the tricorne was popular in both civilian fashion and in military uniforms. They remained one of the predominant European styles of hat throughout the 18th century. In the United States, only the first five Presidents, from George Washingtonto James Monroe, wore this style of hat according to the fashion of the 18th century.[6][7]James Monroe earned the nickname "The Last Cocked Hat"[8] because of this.The tricorne quickly declined in use at the end of the 18th century. It evolved into the bicorne,[9] which was widely used by military officers in Europe from the 1790s until World War I, not completely fading out of style until World War II. For enlisted soldiers, the tricorne was replaced by the shako at the turn of the 19th century, which had become the new dominant style of military headgear from 1800 on.[10] Also at the turn of the 19th century, as the fashionable hat for civilian men, the tricorne was overtaken by the top hat.[11] In 1917, the Women's Royal Naval Service introduced a smaller, modernised version of the tricorne for female officers.
Headwear
- The mitre (British English) (/ˈmaɪtər/; Greek: μίτρα, "headband" or "turban") or miter(American English; see spelling differences), is a type of headgear now known as the traditional, ceremonial head-dress of bishops and certain abbots in traditional Christianity. Mitres are worn in the Orthodox Church, Roman Catholic Church, as well as in the Anglican Communion, some Lutheranchurches, and also bishops and certain other clergy in the Eastern Catholic Churches and the Oriental Orthodox Churches. The Metropolitan of the Malankara Mar Thoma Syrian Church also wears a mitre during important ceremonies such as the Episcopal Consecration.
- A Panama hat (toquilla straw hat) is a traditional brimmed straw hat of Ecuadorian origin. Traditionally, hats were made from the plaited leaves of the Carludovica palmata plant, known locally as the toquilla palm or jipijapa palm, although it is a palm-like plant rather than a true palm. Panama hats are light-colored, lightweight, and breathable, and often worn as accessories to summer-weight suits, such as those made of linen or silk. The tightness, the finesse of the weave, and the time spent in weaving a complete hat out of the toquilla straw characterize its quality. Beginning around the turn of the 20th century, these hats became popular as tropical and seaside accessories owing to their ease of wear and breathability.
- Beginning in the early to mid-1600s, hat weaving evolved as a cottage industry along the Ecuadorian coast as well as in small towns throughout the Andean mountain range. Hat weaving and wearing grew steadily in Ecuador through the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1835, Manuel Alfaro, a man who in many ways can be considered the grandfather of the Panama hat, arrived in Montecristi to make his name and fortune in Panama hats. He set up a Panama hat business with his main objective being exportation. Cargo ships from Guayaquil and Manta were filled with his merchandise and headed to the Gulf of Panama. His business prospered as more and more Gold Rush prospectors arrived and passed through Panama needing a hat for the sun. One of the first towns to start weaving the hats in the Andes is Principal, part of the Chordeleg Canton in the Azuay province. Straw hats woven in Ecuador, like many other 19th and early 20th century South American goods, were shipped first to the Isthmus of Panama before sailing for their destinations in Asia, the rest of the Americas and Europe, subsequently acquiring a name that reflected their point of international sale—"panama hats"—rather than their place of domestic origin. The term was being used by at least 1834. The popularity of the hats increased in the mid-19th century when many miners of the California Gold Rush traveled to California via the Isthmus of Panama and Pacific Mail Steamship Company. In 1904, U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt visited the construction site of the Panama Canal and was photographed wearing a Panama hat, which further increased the hats' popularity. Although the Panama hat continues to provide a livelihood for thousands of Ecuadorians, fewer than a dozen weavers capable of making the finest "Montecristi superfinos" remain. Production in Ecuador is dwindling, due to economic problems in Ecuador and competition from Chinese hat producers.
- The tamsui hat was a straw hat made in Formosa (now Taiwan) to directly compete with the Panama in the early 20th century. Tamsui hats were made from Pandanus odoratissimusfibre, which grew plentifully on the island. As they retained their whiteness, were washable, and could be folded and carried about without damage, Tamsui hats replaced the rather costlier Panama in East Asia in the early 20th century.
- The pith helmet, also known as the safari helmet, sun helmet, topee, sola topee or topi[a], is a lightweight cloth-covered helmet made of sholapith. Pith helmets were often worn by European travelers and explorers, in the varying climates found in Africa, Southeast Asia, as well as the tropics, but have also been used in many other contexts. They were routinely issued to European military personnel serving overseas "in hot climates" from the mid-nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. The pith helmet was first worn by Spanish forces during the colonial era of the Spanish East Indies,[1][2] and was later adopted by the French in Indochina due to its effectiveness in protecting from damp and humid weather.[3] Subsequently, it was commonly worn by non-indigenous officers commanding locally recruited troops in the colonial armies of France, Britain, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Imperial Germany and the Netherlands, as well as civilian officials in their territories. As such it became something of a symbol of colonial rule. Helmets of a similar style (but without true pith construction) continued to be used, as late as World War II, by European and American military personnel. Such was the popularity of the pith helmet that it became a common civilian headgear for Westerners in the tropics from the end of the 19th century.
- Crude forms of pith helmet had existed as early as the 1840s, but it was around 1870 that the pith helmet became popular with military personnel in Europe's tropical colonies. The Franco-Prussian War had popularized the German Pickelhaube, which may have influenced the distinctive design of the pith helmet.[citation needed] Such developments may have merged with a traditional design from the Philippines, the salakot. The alternative name salacot (also written salakhoff) appears frequently in Spanish and French sources; it comes from the Tagalog word salacsac (modern orthography: salaksak). During the Philippine–American War, President Emilio Aguinaldo and the Philippine Revolutionary Army used to wear the pith helmet borrowed from the Spaniards alongside the straw hat and the native salakot. Originally made of pith with small peaks or "bills" at the front and back, the helmet was covered by white cloth, often with a cloth band (or puggaree) around it, and small holes for ventilation. Military versions often had metal insignia on the front and could be decorated with a brass spike or ball-shaped finial. The chinstrap would be either leather or brass chain, depending on the occasion. The base material later became the more durable cork, although still covered with cloth and frequently still referred to as "pith" helmet.
- A kippah (/kɪˈpɑː/ kih-PAH; also spelled as kippa, kipa, kipah; Hebrew: כִּיפָּה, plural: כִּיפּוֹת kippot; Yiddish: קאפל koppel or יאַרמולקע) or yarmulke (/ˈjɑːrməlkə/, /ˈjɑːməkə/) is a brimless cap, usually made of cloth, worn by Jews to fulfill the customary requirement held by Orthodox halachic authorities that the head be covered. It is usually worn by men in Orthodox communities at all times. Most synagoguesand Jewish funeral services keep a ready supply of kippot.The term kippah (Hebrew: כיפה) literally means 'dome'. The same concept is used in Islam, in which the term taqiyah, which refers to a skullcap worn for religious purposes, is derived from Persian ṭāq (طاق) which means 'arch'. The Yiddish term yarmulke is derived from Ukrainian or Polish jarmulka, though it is often associated with an Aramaic phrase (ירא מלכא) meaning 'fear the King'. Koppel is another Yiddish term, mainly used by British Jews.
- A kufi or kufi cap is a brimless, short, and rounded cap worn by men in many populations in North Africa, East Africa, Western Africa and South Asia. It is also worn by men throughout the African diaspora. It is also commonly called a "topi" or "tupi" among the Indian subcontinent.In West Africa, a kufi cap is the traditional hat for men, and is part of the national costume of most of the countries in the region. It is worn by Muslims, and African Christians. Many grandfathers and other older men wear a kufi every day to symbolize their status as wise elders, religious people, or family patriarchs. Within the United States, it has become identified primarily with persons of West African heritage, who wear it to show pride in their culture, history, and religion (whether Christianity, Islam, or Traditional African religions). Often made of kente cloth, mudcloth, or knitted or crocheted in a variety of yarns.
- 三角帽（Tricorne）是西洋服飾中的一種男用帽子，又被稱為海盜帽，由頂部俯視呈三角形而得名。三角帽發源於歐洲，自17世紀後期盛行至18世紀，在極盛期時不但是一般男性知識份子的標準行頭，也是軍人戎裝的標準配件之一。1789年的法國大革命後為雙角帽所取代。Typically made from animal fiber, the more expensive being of beaver-hair felt and the less expensive of wool felt, the hat's most distinguishing characteristic was that three sides of the brim were turned up (cocked) and either pinned, laced, or buttoned in place to form a triangle around the crown. The style served two purposes: first, it allowed stylish gentlemen to show off the most current fashions of their wigs, and thus their social status; and secondly, the cocked hat, with its folded brim, was much smaller than other hats, and therefore could be more easily tucked under an arm when going inside a building, where social etiquette dictated that a gentleman should remove his hat. Tricornes with laced sides could have the laces loosened and the sides dropped down to provide better protection from the weather, sun, and rain.The tricorne appeared as a result of the evolution of the broad-brim round hat used by Spanish soldiers in Flanders during the 17th century.[5] By pledging (binding) the brims, a triangular shape was obtained. This shape was favored by Spanish soldiers, as when standing at arms their muskets could be held at their shoulders right or left without hitting the hat brim. War broke out between France and Spain in 1667 over the Spanish Netherlands, and during the subsequent struggle its use spread to the French armies. The style was brought back to France, where its usage spread to the French population and the royal court of King Louis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as a civilian and military wear. By the end of the 17th century, the tricorne was popular in both civilian fashion and in military uniforms. They remained one of the predominant European styles of hat throughout the 18th century. In the United States, only the first five Presidents, from George Washingtonto James Monroe, wore this style of hat according to the fashion of the 18th century.[6][7]James Monroe earned the nickname "The Last Cocked Hat"[8] because of this.The tricorne quickly declined in use at the end of the 18th century. It evolved into the bicorne,[9] which was widely used by military officers in Europe from the 1790s until World War I, not completely fading out of style until World War II. For enlisted soldiers, the tricorne was replaced by the shako at the turn of the 19th century, which had become the new dominant style of military headgear from 1800 on.[10] Also at the turn of the 19th century, as the fashionable hat for civilian men, the tricorne was overtaken by the top hat.[11] In 1917, the Women's Royal Naval Service introduced a smaller, modernised version of the tricorne for female officers.
- The Three-Cornered Hat (Spanish: El sombrero de tres picos) is a novel written by Pedro Antonio de Alarcón in 1874.[1] The piece should be classified as a short story and it contains popular tradition with a linear plot line.[2] The novel has a theatrical format and it has been compared with the Miguel de Cervantes novel Don Quijote.It was adapted into the ballet The Three-Cornered Hat, by Manuel de Falla.
- tasseled hat
- mentioned in kent folklore "princess and the fool"
Headwear
- The mitre (British English) (/ˈmaɪtər/; Greek: μίτρα, "headband" or "turban") or miter(American English; see spelling differences), is a type of headgear now known as the traditional, ceremonial head-dress of bishops and certain abbots in traditional Christianity. Mitres are worn in the Orthodox Church, Roman Catholic Church, as well as in the Anglican Communion, some Lutheranchurches, and also bishops and certain other clergy in the Eastern Catholic Churches and the Oriental Orthodox Churches. The Metropolitan of the Malankara Mar Thoma Syrian Church also wears a mitre during important ceremonies such as the Episcopal Consecration.
- 古代妇人的头上饰物。用条状貂皮围于髻下额上，如帽套。相传为 昭君 出塞时所戴，故称。“昭君套”是一种用动物皮毛做的女式帽子，但没有顶，要露出发髻，正确的讲应是帽套。它在明代称为“卧兔儿”，用海獭皮做的就称“海獭卧兔儿”，用貂鼠皮做的就称“貂鼠卧兔儿”。旧日我们唐山、丰润一带老年妇女冬日常戴一种黑色大绒做的帽子 [1] ，大约就是这种“卧兔儿”或者“昭君套”的遗制，不过多了一个顶而已。所以昭君套也叫“貂覆额”、“卧兔”。
hoodie
-The hoodie – a sweatshirt with a hood, often with a drawstring and usually a marsupial or muff pocket at the front – came onto the scene around the 1930s. As eloquently explained in a 2018 TED talk by Paola Antonelli, a senior curator of architecture and design at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, hooded attire can be traced back to ancient Greece and ancient Rome. In the Middle Ages, monks wore hooded robes.There is also a romantic notion that 17th century women hid themselves under hoods on their way to meet secret lovers. In the 1930s, the hoodie as we know it was introduced to keep athletes warm by Knickerbocker Knitting, the company now known as Champion. It was quickly adopted by labourers.However, it was not until the 70s that hoodies took off in the fashion sense. In popular culture, the 1976 film Rocky brought them new cachet, and at around the same time designers such as Halston and Norma Kamali took them into the luxury sphere. Think Bianca Jagger at Studio 54. Over the next few decades, the hoodie was adopted by hip hop artists, skateboarders and surfers, cementing it as the look of youth and street culture.https://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-magazine/fashion/article/3075714/thanks-rihanna-and-timothee-chalamet-hoodies-are
Footwear
- Pianella è un termine generico utilizzato per indicare diversi tipi di calzature con zeppa diffuse in Europa tra il XIV secolo e il XVII secolo. Ad oggi, il termine è passato ad indicare un tipo di pantofola che lascia scoperto il piede alla caviglia. A chopine is a type of women's platform shoe that was popular in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Chopines were originally used as a patten, clog, or overshoe to protect the shoes and dress from mud and street soil. Chopines were popularly worn in Venice by both courtesans and patrician women from ca. 1400–1700. Besides their practical uses, the height of the chopine became a symbolic reference to the cultural and social standing of the wearer; the higher the chopine, the higher the status of the wearer. High chopines allowed a woman to tower over others. During the Renaissance, chopines became an article of women's fashion and were made increasingly taller; some extant examples are over 20 inches (50 cm) high.[2]In 1430, the height of chopines was limited by Venetian law to three inches, but this regulation was widely ignored.
- 清代花盆底鞋，又称旗鞋，是清朝时满族妇女穿的一种鞋子。其以木为底，鞋底高5－15厘米，上细下宽、前平后圆，多为十三四岁以上的贵族中青年女子穿着。
- Jika-tabi (地下足袋, "tabi that contact the ground") is a type of outdoor footwear worn in Japan. It was invented in the 20th century. Also known (outside Japan) as "tabi boots", they are modelled on tabi, traditional split-toe Japanese socks. Like other tabi, jika-tabi have a divided toe area so that they can in theory be worn with slip-on thonged footwear, but they are heavy-duty, and resemble boots. Tokujirō Ishibashi, a brother of Shōjirō Ishibashi who is the founder of the major tire company Bridgestone Corporation, is credited with their invention. Outside Japan, where they are available from online and martial-arts shops, jika-tabi are appreciated by practitioners of the martial art of Bujinkan budo taijutsu, especially when training outdoors. Other people also like wearing them for certain kinds of exercise, specifically trail-running, walking, and climbing. In recent years, jika-tabi have been seen in Hollywood movie productions.現在国内販売は、そのシェアの6～7割を占める株式会社力王（1948年設立 本社東京都）と約3割を占める株式会社丸五（1919年創業 本社岡山県倉敷市）による寡占市場である。生産は、そのほとんどを中国などの海外生産に頼っている。現在ではつま先保護用、または踏み抜き防止用にスチールプレートが入った「安全地下足袋」、山中など滑りやすい地面で歩きやすいよう作られた「スパイク地下足袋」、かかと部にエアークッションを備えて足腰の負担を軽減する「エアージョグ」なども商品化されている。北朝鮮ではズック靴・スニーカーが地下足袋（チハヂョク）と呼ばれている。
- online resource
- http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/274cff32-be15-11e4-8cf3-00144feab7de.html Anatomy of a catwalk show — and how the model industry works
德勒A deel (Mongolian: дээл [deːɮ]; Buryat: дэгэл, [dɛɡɛɮ]) is an item of traditional clothing commonly worn since centuries ago among the Mongols and other nomadic tribes of Central Asia, including various Turkic peoples, and can be made from cotton, silk, wool, or brocade. The deel is still commonly worn by both men and women outside major towns, especially by herders. In urban areas, deels are mostly only worn by elderly people, or on festive occasions. The deel appears similar to a caftan or an old European folded tunic. Deels typically reach to below the wearer's knees and fan out at the bottom and are commonly blue, olive, or burgundy, though there are deels in a variety of other colors.
trousers
- https://www.quora.com/Why-didnt-the-Romans-wear-trousers-pants
hoodie
-The hoodie – a sweatshirt with a hood, often with a drawstring and usually a marsupial or muff pocket at the front – came onto the scene around the 1930s. As eloquently explained in a 2018 TED talk by Paola Antonelli, a senior curator of architecture and design at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, hooded attire can be traced back to ancient Greece and ancient Rome. In the Middle Ages, monks wore hooded robes.There is also a romantic notion that 17th century women hid themselves under hoods on their way to meet secret lovers. In the 1930s, the hoodie as we know it was introduced to keep athletes warm by Knickerbocker Knitting, the company now known as Champion. It was quickly adopted by labourers.However, it was not until the 70s that hoodies took off in the fashion sense. In popular culture, the 1976 film Rocky brought them new cachet, and at around the same time designers such as Halston and Norma Kamali took them into the luxury sphere. Think Bianca Jagger at Studio 54. Over the next few decades, the hoodie was adopted by hip hop artists, skateboarders and surfers, cementing it as the look of youth and street culture.https://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-magazine/fashion/article/3075714/thanks-rihanna-and-timothee-chalamet-hoodies-are
Footwear
- Pianella è un termine generico utilizzato per indicare diversi tipi di calzature con zeppa diffuse in Europa tra il XIV secolo e il XVII secolo. Ad oggi, il termine è passato ad indicare un tipo di pantofola che lascia scoperto il piede alla caviglia. A chopine is a type of women's platform shoe that was popular in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Chopines were originally used as a patten, clog, or overshoe to protect the shoes and dress from mud and street soil. Chopines were popularly worn in Venice by both courtesans and patrician women from ca. 1400–1700. Besides their practical uses, the height of the chopine became a symbolic reference to the cultural and social standing of the wearer; the higher the chopine, the higher the status of the wearer. High chopines allowed a woman to tower over others. During the Renaissance, chopines became an article of women's fashion and were made increasingly taller; some extant examples are over 20 inches (50 cm) high.[2]In 1430, the height of chopines was limited by Venetian law to three inches, but this regulation was widely ignored.
- 清代花盆底鞋，又称旗鞋，是清朝时满族妇女穿的一种鞋子。其以木为底，鞋底高5－15厘米，上细下宽、前平后圆，多为十三四岁以上的贵族中青年女子穿着。
- Jika-tabi (地下足袋, "tabi that contact the ground") is a type of outdoor footwear worn in Japan. It was invented in the 20th century. Also known (outside Japan) as "tabi boots", they are modelled on tabi, traditional split-toe Japanese socks. Like other tabi, jika-tabi have a divided toe area so that they can in theory be worn with slip-on thonged footwear, but they are heavy-duty, and resemble boots. Tokujirō Ishibashi, a brother of Shōjirō Ishibashi who is the founder of the major tire company Bridgestone Corporation, is credited with their invention. Outside Japan, where they are available from online and martial-arts shops, jika-tabi are appreciated by practitioners of the martial art of Bujinkan budo taijutsu, especially when training outdoors. Other people also like wearing them for certain kinds of exercise, specifically trail-running, walking, and climbing. In recent years, jika-tabi have been seen in Hollywood movie productions.現在国内販売は、そのシェアの6～7割を占める株式会社力王（1948年設立 本社東京都）と約3割を占める株式会社丸五（1919年創業 本社岡山県倉敷市）による寡占市場である。生産は、そのほとんどを中国などの海外生産に頼っている。現在ではつま先保護用、または踏み抜き防止用にスチールプレートが入った「安全地下足袋」、山中など滑りやすい地面で歩きやすいよう作られた「スパイク地下足袋」、かかと部にエアークッションを備えて足腰の負担を軽減する「エアージョグ」なども商品化されている。北朝鮮ではズック靴・スニーカーが地下足袋（チハヂョク）と呼ばれている。
- online resource
- http://www.worldfootwear.com/
- http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/274cff32-be15-11e4-8cf3-00144feab7de.html Anatomy of a catwalk show — and how the model industry works
The alb (from the Latin Albus, meaning white), one of the liturgical vestments of the Roman Catholic, Anglican, Lutheran, and Methodistchurches, is an ample white garment coming down to the ankles and is usually girdled with a cincture (a type of belt, sometimes of rope similar to the type used with monk garments). It is simply the long, white linen tunic used by the Romans. As a simple derivative of ordinary first-century clothing, the alb was adopted very early by Christians, and especially by the clergy for the Eucharistic liturgy. In early Medieval Europe it was also normally worn by secular clergy in non-liturgical contexts. Nowadays, the alb is the common vestment for all ministers at Mass, both clerics and laypersons, and is worn over the cassock and under any other special garments, such as the stole, dalmatic or chasuble. If the alb does not completely cover the collar, an amice is often worn underneath the alb. The shortening of the alb for use outside a church has given rise to the surplice, and its cousin the rochet, worn by canonsand bishops. Post-Tridentine albs often were made with lace. Since then, this detail has fallen out of style, except in parts of the Anglo-Catholicmovement and some very traditional Arab Catholic parishes.
- The stole is a liturgical vestment of various Christian denominations. It consists of a band of colored cloth, formerly usually of silk, about seven and a half to nine feet long and three to four inches wide, whose ends may be straight or may broaden out. The center of the stole is worn around the back of the neck and the two ends hang down parallel to each other in front, either attached to each other or hanging loose. The stole is almost always decorated in some way, usually with a cross or some other significant religious design. It is often decorated with contrasting galloons (ornamental trim) and fringe is usually applied to the ends of the stole following Numbers 15:38-39. A piece of white linen or lace may be stitched onto the back of the collar as a sweat guard, which can be replaced more cheaply than the stole itself.
A surtout coat is a man's frock coat, of the kind worn by cavalry officers over their uniforms in the 18th and early 19th centuries. It was occasionally worn by British soldiers during the Revolutionary War (American War of Independence). Surtout is also a French word meaning "above all" or "especially". Only english, deutsch and swedish versions in wikipedia
A tunic is a garment for the body, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the ankles. The name derives from the Latin tunica, the basic garment worn by both men and women in Ancient Rome, which in turn was based on earlier Greek garments that covered people around their waists. Tunics worn by the Celts were documented by the Greek historian Diodorus Siculus:
"... the way they dress is astonishing: they wear brightly coloured and embroidered shirts, with trousers called braccae and cloaks fastened at the shoulder with a brooch, heavy in winter, light in summer. These cloaks are striped or checkered in design, with the separate checks close together and in various colours."In Western culture, its use continues primarily in a religiousand uniform context. It is the primary garment worn by the clergy and members of religious orders. The religious tunic reaches to the feet and was the source of the clerical cassock, as well as, in its liturgical form, the alb, after the long tunic worn by Roman citizens.[9]'Tunic' is also the name often given to the high-collar uniform coat worn by military and policepersonnel. Light feminine garments, especially for sports or exercise, usually only coming down to mid-thigh, are also called tunics. Worn in Indian Sub-Continent, including India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, tunic is usually referred to as Kurta and is now an emerging women's top style increasingly liked by many in the West. An Asian tunic is typically adorned with delicate embroidery, bead-work or intricate threadwork as well. Embroidery or thread work on such tunics usually combines threads of many different colors.
"... the way they dress is astonishing: they wear brightly coloured and embroidered shirts, with trousers called braccae and cloaks fastened at the shoulder with a brooch, heavy in winter, light in summer. These cloaks are striped or checkered in design, with the separate checks close together and in various colours."In Western culture, its use continues primarily in a religiousand uniform context. It is the primary garment worn by the clergy and members of religious orders. The religious tunic reaches to the feet and was the source of the clerical cassock, as well as, in its liturgical form, the alb, after the long tunic worn by Roman citizens.[9]'Tunic' is also the name often given to the high-collar uniform coat worn by military and policepersonnel. Light feminine garments, especially for sports or exercise, usually only coming down to mid-thigh, are also called tunics. Worn in Indian Sub-Continent, including India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, tunic is usually referred to as Kurta and is now an emerging women's top style increasingly liked by many in the West. An Asian tunic is typically adorned with delicate embroidery, bead-work or intricate threadwork as well. Embroidery or thread work on such tunics usually combines threads of many different colors.
德勒A deel (Mongolian: дээл [deːɮ]; Buryat: дэгэл, [dɛɡɛɮ]) is an item of traditional clothing commonly worn since centuries ago among the Mongols and other nomadic tribes of Central Asia, including various Turkic peoples, and can be made from cotton, silk, wool, or brocade. The deel is still commonly worn by both men and women outside major towns, especially by herders. In urban areas, deels are mostly only worn by elderly people, or on festive occasions. The deel appears similar to a caftan or an old European folded tunic. Deels typically reach to below the wearer's knees and fan out at the bottom and are commonly blue, olive, or burgundy, though there are deels in a variety of other colors.
trousers
- https://www.quora.com/Why-didnt-the-Romans-wear-trousers-pants
La camicia è un capo d'abbigliamento di stoffa che copre il busto, e di solito ha un colletto, maniche, un taschino (a volte due taschini con o senza bottone) ed è abbottonata sul davanti.A dress shirt, button shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, or button-up shirt is a garment with a collar and a full-length opening at the front, which is fastened using buttons or shirt studs. A button-down or button-up shirt is a dress shirt which has a button-down collar – a collar having the ends fastened to the shirt with buttons. Dress shirts are normally made from woven cloth, and are often accompanied by a jacket, collar sleeve, and tie, for example with a suit or formalwear, but shirts are also worn more casually. In British English, "dress shirt" ("formal shirts," or "tuxedo shirts" in American English) means specifically the more formal evening garment worn with black- or white-tie. Some of these formal shirts have stiff fronts and detachable collars attached with collar studs. Traditionally dress shirts were worn by men and boys, whereas women and girls often wore blouses or, sometimes, known as chemises. However, in the mid-1800s, they also became an item of women's clothing and are worn by both sexes today.
A thawb or thobe (Arabic: ثَوْب / ALA-LC: thawb), also called Kandoora, Dishdasha, Khamiis , and Qamiis, is an ankle-length garment, usually with long sleeves, similar to a robe, kaftan or tunic. It is commonly worn in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, neighbouring Arab countries, the southern ports and Islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. A sirwal or pants, izaar or lungi are typically worn underneath.The word thawb is the standard Arabic word for 'a garment'. It is traditional clothing style for men. It is sometimes spelled thobe or thaub. It is a tunic, generally long. The word is used specifically for this garment in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and some areas in the south of Egypt. There has been some debate regarding the correct length of the thawb.The thawb is commonly worn by men in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, and other Arab countries in the Persian Gulf. It is normally made of cotton, but heavier materials such as sheep's wool can also be used, especially in colder climates in Iraq and Syria.[1] The style of the thawb varies slightly among the various regions within the Persian Gulf region. The sleeves and the collar can be stiffened to give a more formal appearance. Other names may be used for this garment. In the Levant and Oman, dishdasha is the most common word for the garment; in the UAE, the word kandura is used. In Morocco, the sleeves tend to be much shorter so that the thawb may seem more like a long T-shirt and is locally called gandora. The neck also tends to be more open than in its Saudi counterpart and, along with the breast pocket, is often embroidered. It might also lack buttons altogether. The term thawb is also used to refer to similar women's garments.[2]. In the lead up to Independence (1956–present), new styles of thobes became fashionable as Sudanese women "expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion."[3] The traditional Palestinian woman's long tunic is also a thobe. This style originated in the early 19th century and is richly embroidered, with different colours and patterns signifying various aspects of the wearer's social position.[4] Since the Nakba, or 1948 Palestinian exodus, the thobe has also come to represent Palestinian political identity. Another example is a very long, oversized woman's garment with a heavily embroidered front panel and billowing back, also known as a Khaleeji dress, which is most commonly seen in the West[where?] worn for performance of the Saudiwomen's social-style dances, in which manipulation of the large thawb is a key component. This garment is also known as Kanzu in Swahili, and is commonly worn on the Swahili Coast by Swahili men.
- 中東諸国で消費されているトーブは、日本製が約40%から45%を占める[1]。また、トーブの中でも高級品とされる消費量のほぼ100%が日本製となっている[1]。トーブ高級品のシェアの70%を占めているのは東洋紡。シェアは以下、シキボウ、一村産業（東レ子会社）が続く[1]。汎用品として韓国産トーブやインドネシア産トーブも日本製トーブの半値ほどで販売されているが、現地では日本製の人気は高い[1]。シキボウの「Shikibo」をはじめ、「○○ボー」ブランドは高級生地の代名詞であり、ステータスとなっている[4]。それに伴い、「TOYOBO」ではなく「TOBOYO」、「Shikibo」ならぬ「Shekibo」といったコピー商品のようなものも出回っているが、品質は悪い[5]。
The masque was a form of festive courtlyentertainment that flourished in 16th- and early 17th-century Europe, though it was developed earlier in Italy, in forms including the intermedio (a public version of the masque was the pageant). A masque involved music and dancing, singing and acting, within an elaborate stage design, in which the architectural framing and costumes might be designed by a renowned architect, to present a deferential allegory flattering to the patron. Professional actors and musicians were hired for the speaking and singing parts. Often the masquers, who did not speak or sing, were courtiers: the English queen Anne of Denmark frequently danced with her ladies in masques between 1603 and 1611, and Henry VIII and Charles I of England performed in the masques at their courts. In the tradition of masque, Louis XIV of France danced in ballets at Versailles with music by Jean-Baptiste Lully.
socks
- https://www.quora.com/What-are-socks-called-in-your-dialect-or-language-Is-it-curap-like-in-Turkish-and-Greek-or-is-it-a-word-from-Persian-or-a-dialect In Albanian we call socks as “çorape” too, however we have some dialectal variants as “çërape” or “çerape”, the singular form is “çorap”.
apparel named after a place
- holland smock
- sylvan dress
Rules and regulation
- european chemical agency added sodium perborate to REACH candidate list as a substance of very high concern
- norway introduced legislation tobbban products and textiles with PFOA
Standard
- The OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is an independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/concept/oeko_tex_standard_100/oeko_tex_standard_100.xhtml
Functional fabrics icons classification (interstoff exhibition booklet)
- casual and home wear
- http://indiatoday.intoday.in/education/story/shirt-buttons/1/858917.html
robot manufacturing
- http://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/finance/20170903/00202_005.html外媒報道，裁縫機械人Sewbot誕生，將徹底改變紡織品製造業。該機械人縫製系統每22秒生產一件T恤，以此伸算，每天能為adidas生產80萬件T恤，令到被外界批評的中國血汗工廠（Sweatshop）隨時倒閉，上萬計工人失業。香港學者更警告，機械人生產令成本大降，勢令美國買家回歸「美國製造」，港商日後將面對訂單大減的危機。中華廠商聯合會會董兼香港製衣同業協進會永遠榮譽會長鍾國斌表示：「港商可引入這類機械人，最重要是知道價錢，才能決定引入多少部。香港政府一直很支持再工業化，今年亦投放100億元在創新科技，加上人才培訓，工人可以趁這機會增值，配合轉型。」
new materials
- plastics
- recycled materials
People
Ein Reifrock ist ein durch Reifen aus Holz, Fischbein oder Federstahl gespreizter Unterrock. Je nach Form und Epoche unterscheidet man Verdugado, Panier, Krinoline oder Tournüre. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a women's undergarment worn in various periods to hold the skirt extended into a fashionable shape. Its Tudor name was a 'farthingale'. It originated as a modest-sized mechanism for holding long skirts away from one's legs, to stay cooler in hot climates and to keep from tripping on the skirt during various activities. Small hoops might be worn by farmers and while working in the garden. Hoops were then adopted as a fashion item, and the size and scale of the hoops grew in grandeur. Hoop skirts typically consist of a fabric petticoat sewn with channels designed to act as casings for stiffening materials, variously rope, osiers, whalebone, steel, or, from the mid-20th century, nylon. Hoop skirts are called by various names in different periods:
- Farthingale (Spanish verdugado) (16th century)
- Panniers or "side hoops" (18th century)
- Crinoline or crinolette (mid-19th century)
Lightweight hoop skirts, usually with nylon hoops, are worn today under very full-skirted wedding gowns. They can sometimes be seen in the gothic fashion scene. Reproduction hoop skirts are an essential part of living history costuming, including American Civil War reenactment.
A thawb or thobe (Arabic: ثَوْب / ALA-LC: thawb), also called Kandoora, Dishdasha, Khamiis , and Qamiis, is an ankle-length garment, usually with long sleeves, similar to a robe, kaftan or tunic. It is commonly worn in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, neighbouring Arab countries, the southern ports and Islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. A sirwal or pants, izaar or lungi are typically worn underneath.The word thawb is the standard Arabic word for 'a garment'. It is traditional clothing style for men. It is sometimes spelled thobe or thaub. It is a tunic, generally long. The word is used specifically for this garment in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and some areas in the south of Egypt. There has been some debate regarding the correct length of the thawb.The thawb is commonly worn by men in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, and other Arab countries in the Persian Gulf. It is normally made of cotton, but heavier materials such as sheep's wool can also be used, especially in colder climates in Iraq and Syria.[1] The style of the thawb varies slightly among the various regions within the Persian Gulf region. The sleeves and the collar can be stiffened to give a more formal appearance. Other names may be used for this garment. In the Levant and Oman, dishdasha is the most common word for the garment; in the UAE, the word kandura is used. In Morocco, the sleeves tend to be much shorter so that the thawb may seem more like a long T-shirt and is locally called gandora. The neck also tends to be more open than in its Saudi counterpart and, along with the breast pocket, is often embroidered. It might also lack buttons altogether. The term thawb is also used to refer to similar women's garments.[2]. In the lead up to Independence (1956–present), new styles of thobes became fashionable as Sudanese women "expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion."[3] The traditional Palestinian woman's long tunic is also a thobe. This style originated in the early 19th century and is richly embroidered, with different colours and patterns signifying various aspects of the wearer's social position.[4] Since the Nakba, or 1948 Palestinian exodus, the thobe has also come to represent Palestinian political identity. Another example is a very long, oversized woman's garment with a heavily embroidered front panel and billowing back, also known as a Khaleeji dress, which is most commonly seen in the West[where?] worn for performance of the Saudiwomen's social-style dances, in which manipulation of the large thawb is a key component. This garment is also known as Kanzu in Swahili, and is commonly worn on the Swahili Coast by Swahili men.
- 中東諸国で消費されているトーブは、日本製が約40%から45%を占める[1]。また、トーブの中でも高級品とされる消費量のほぼ100%が日本製となっている[1]。トーブ高級品のシェアの70%を占めているのは東洋紡。シェアは以下、シキボウ、一村産業（東レ子会社）が続く[1]。汎用品として韓国産トーブやインドネシア産トーブも日本製トーブの半値ほどで販売されているが、現地では日本製の人気は高い[1]。シキボウの「Shikibo」をはじめ、「○○ボー」ブランドは高級生地の代名詞であり、ステータスとなっている[4]。それに伴い、「TOYOBO」ではなく「TOBOYO」、「Shikibo」ならぬ「Shekibo」といったコピー商品のようなものも出回っているが、品質は悪い[5]。
The cravat (/krəˈvæt/, krə-vat) is a neckband, the forerunner of the modern tailored necktie and bow tie, originating from 17th-century military unit known as the Croats. From the end of the 16th century, the term band applied to any long-strip neckcloth that was not a ruff. The ruff, a starched, pleated white linenstrip, originated earlier in the 16th century as a neckcloth (readily changeable, to minimize the soiling of a doublet), as a bib, or as a napkin. A band could be either a plain, attached shirt collar or a detachable "falling band" that draped over the doublet collar. It is possible that cravats were initially worn to hide shirts which were not immaculately clean.[3] Alternatively, it was thought to serve as psychological protection of the neck during battle from attack by a spear. The cravat originated in the 1630s; like most men's fashions between the 17th century and World War I, it was of military origin. In the reign of Louis XIII of France, Croatianmercenaries[4] were enlisted into a regiment supporting the King and Cardinal Richelieu against the Duke of Guise and the Queen Mother, Marie de' Medici. The traditional Croat military kit aroused Parisian curiosity about the unusual, picturesque scarves distinctively knotted at the Croats' necks; the cloths that were used ranged from the coarse cloths of enlisted soldiers to the fine linens and silks of the officers. The sartorial word cravat derives from the French cravate, a corrupt French pronunciation of Croate. Croatia (Hrvatska in Croatian) today celebrates Cravat Day on October 18.
The masque was a form of festive courtlyentertainment that flourished in 16th- and early 17th-century Europe, though it was developed earlier in Italy, in forms including the intermedio (a public version of the masque was the pageant). A masque involved music and dancing, singing and acting, within an elaborate stage design, in which the architectural framing and costumes might be designed by a renowned architect, to present a deferential allegory flattering to the patron. Professional actors and musicians were hired for the speaking and singing parts. Often the masquers, who did not speak or sing, were courtiers: the English queen Anne of Denmark frequently danced with her ladies in masques between 1603 and 1611, and Henry VIII and Charles I of England performed in the masques at their courts. In the tradition of masque, Louis XIV of France danced in ballets at Versailles with music by Jean-Baptiste Lully.
socks
- https://www.quora.com/What-are-socks-called-in-your-dialect-or-language-Is-it-curap-like-in-Turkish-and-Greek-or-is-it-a-word-from-Persian-or-a-dialect In Albanian we call socks as “çorape” too, however we have some dialectal variants as “çërape” or “çerape”, the singular form is “çorap”.
We borrowed the word for “socks” from the Ottomans, which borrowed it from the Persians.In Italian is “calze”, or if you prefer the diminutive form, you could say “calzini”, the singular forms are “calza” and “calzino” respectively. They derive from Latin “calceus”, that means “shoe”.
apparel named after a place
- holland smock
- sylvan dress
Rules and regulation
- european chemical agency added sodium perborate to REACH candidate list as a substance of very high concern
- norway introduced legislation tobbban products and textiles with PFOA
Standard
- The OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is an independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/concept/oeko_tex_standard_100/oeko_tex_standard_100.xhtml
Functional fabrics icons classification (interstoff exhibition booklet)
- casual and home wear
- antibacterial
- antifungal
- anti-mite
- aromatic
- far infrared
- negative ion
- stain release
- self cleaning
- two way stretch
- water repellent
- https://www.ecotextile.com/2020033025889/dyes-chemicals-news/eu-likely-to-ban-c6-based-textile-coatings.html
- wrinkle free
- outdoor and sportwear
- abrasion resistant
- anti-pilling
- anti-mosquito
- antibacterial
- antifungal
- bionic climate
- cool feel
- moisture absorption and thermo retentive
- moisture transferring and quick drying
- shape memory
- temperature adjustable
- shape retention/stretch
- thermal and lightweight
- thermochromic
- ultraviolet protective
- water vapour permeable and liquid water impermeable
- water repellent
- windproof
- Uniform and protective clothing
- abrasion resistant
- anti-mosquito
- antistatic
- deodorant
- electromagnetic shielding
- flame resistant
- oil repellent textiles
- reflective
- self-cleaning
- stain relaease
- ultraviolet protective
- water repellent
- http://indiatoday.intoday.in/education/story/shirt-buttons/1/858917.html
robot manufacturing
- http://orientaldaily.on.cc/cnt/finance/20170903/00202_005.html外媒報道，裁縫機械人Sewbot誕生，將徹底改變紡織品製造業。該機械人縫製系統每22秒生產一件T恤，以此伸算，每天能為adidas生產80萬件T恤，令到被外界批評的中國血汗工廠（Sweatshop）隨時倒閉，上萬計工人失業。香港學者更警告，機械人生產令成本大降，勢令美國買家回歸「美國製造」，港商日後將面對訂單大減的危機。中華廠商聯合會會董兼香港製衣同業協進會永遠榮譽會長鍾國斌表示：「港商可引入這類機械人，最重要是知道價錢，才能決定引入多少部。香港政府一直很支持再工業化，今年亦投放100億元在創新科技，加上人才培訓，工人可以趁這機會增值，配合轉型。」
new materials
- plastics
- https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/people/2019/04/18/ralph-lauren-polo-shirts-recycled-plastic-bottles/3505669002/ The Polo isn't the first of its kind. Smaller brands around the world are using repurposed and recycled materials. In announcing Earth Polo, Ralph Lauren committed to removing at least 170 million bottles from landfills and oceans by 2025. The shirts are manufactured in Taiwan, where the bottles are collected. Each uses an average 12 bottles. The shirts are produced in partnership with First Mile, an organization that collects the bottles turned into yarn and, ultimately, fabric. The new fibers will also be used for existing performance wear already made of polyfibers, which are popular for their ability to wick away moisture.
- www.teijin.com ecopet - recycledc polyester fiber made from used plastic bottles
- https://www.gelatex.com/
- The Dutch start-up Sponsh, a spin-off company of Eindhoven University of Technology, developed a temperature-sensitive smart textile that absorbs water from the air at night and releases water by day, inspired by desert animals.https://materialdistrict.com/article/capturing-water-from-the-air-inspired-by-nature/
- imitation leather made from gelatine, a natural collagen taken from animal body parts like bones and joints that usually go to waste
- recycled materials
- hk
- 申洲集團這 次帶來可降解滌綸、草木染、個性化 定製印花T恤等多項倡導綠色健康生 活的黑科技。 其中火山岩面料就是利用地球自身 資源改善人們生活環境的最新產品， 據介紹，該產品使用「核殼架構雙技 能粉體」的專利製造，將火山岩通過 高溫碳化成粉，再經過研磨後製成一 種含有「微量金屬元素+碳化材質」 的紗線。從肉眼來看，火山岩面 料與普通面料並沒有很大區別， 但工作人員介紹，由於火山岩內 富含鋁、鈣、鈉、鎂等多種礦物 質和微量元素，使得該面料能蓄 熱保溫，而且快乾舒適，具有除 臭效果。 石墨烯外套可憑手機控制溫度 「我們在去年就已經嚐到了甜 頭。」公司工作人員說，去年該 公司研發生產的石墨烯外套，利 用石墨烯自發熱的性能，可通過 手機終端控制衣服溫度，保持在 25 至 65 攝氏度，引起了市場的追 捧，國內年銷售額超過 1,200萬元， 預計今年銷售會持續增長。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2019/10/25/b02-1025.pdf
- intergravity
People
-Pierre Cardin (UK: /ˈkɑːrdæ̃, -dæn/, US: /kɑːrˈdæ̃, -ˈdæn/, French: [pjɛʁ kaʁdɛ̃]; born Pietro Costante Cardin[a] (2 July 1922 – 29 December 2020),[1] was an Italian-born naturalised-French[2][3] fashion designer. He is known for what were his avant-garde style and Space Agedesigns.Cardin was born near Treviso in northern Italy, the son of Maria Montagner and Alessandro Cardin.[5] His parents were wealthy landowners, but to escape fascism they left Italy and settled in France in 1924.During World War II, he worked for the Red Cross, launching humanitarianinterests that continued throughout his life.Inspired by space travel and exploration, Cardin visited NASA (the National Aeronautics and Space Administration) in 1970, where he tried on the original spacesuit worn by the first human to set foot on the moon, Neil Armstrong. Cardin loved the spacesuit so much, he created his own design for NASA in 1970.Cardin resigned from the Chambre Syndicale in 1966 and began showing his collections in his own venue, the "Espace Cardin" (opened 1971) in Paris, formerly the "Théâtre des Ambassadeurs", near the Embassy of the United States.[citation needed] The Espace Cardin is also used to promote new artistic talents, like theatre ensembles, musicians, and others.[citation needed] He also designed uniforms for Pakistan International Airlines, which were introduced from 1966 to 1971 and became an instant hit.In 1971, Cardin redesigned the Barong Tagalog, a national costume of the Philippines, by opening the front, removing the cuffs that needed cufflinks, flaring the sleeves, and minimizing the embroidery. It was also tapered to the body, in contrast with the traditional loose-fitting design, and it also had a thicker collar with sharp and pointed cuffs. A straight-cut design was favored by President Ferdinand Marcos.他很早就對服裝設計產生興趣，17歲就拜師學藝，1945年到巴黎闖天下，參與電影《美女與野獸》的服裝設計，當法國時尚界仍然鎖國自封時，皮爾卡丹率先「走出去」開拓國際市場，1966年進軍日本，參與1975年山口百惠主演劇集《血疑》的服裝設計。皮爾卡丹更衝破冷戰隔閡，1978年與蘇聯簽署合作協議，對中國的情結讓他在1979年成為首位訪問中國的法國設計師，翌年更在北京舉行首場時裝展。皮爾卡丹是首位在紅場舉行時裝展的設計師，2011年更在天津「基輔」號航母上舉航時裝展。皮爾卡丹亦首創授權概念，將品牌授權給第三方生產男女服裝、童裝及配飾等，帶來龐大收入。他亦積極發展新業務，1981年收購瀕臨倒閉的巴黎Maxim's餐廳，香水、工業設計、地產、娛樂以及鮮花種植等，均有涉獵。http://pdf.wenweipo.com/2020/12/30/a18-1230.pdf
Media
- Ecotextile http://www.mowbray.uk.com/products/magazines.html, http://www.ecotextile.com/
- http://texpertise-network.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt/en/exhibitors/ueber_texpertise_network.html
- European Leather magazine https://portal.dnb.de/opac.htm?method=simpleSearch&cqlMode=true&query=idn%3D010501258
- www.lacenlingerie.com
dress code
- economist 4may19 "struggling with style" modern dress codes are easier for men than for women
Stylists
- grace lam, tina leung cote magazine fall2014
Website
- http://www.texglobe.net/
- visual dictionary of ancient costume http://visual.merriam-webster.com/clothing-articles/clothing.php
Events
- textile
- garment
- yarn/spin
- footwear
- texworld, paris
- international apparel sourcing expo http://apparelsourcingshow-us.messefrankfurt.com/newyork/en/for-attendees/welcome.html
- China International Knitting Trade Fair, Shanghai
- TITAS, Taiwan
- Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
- PanTextiles Osaka
- Korea Style Week (two times a year)
- Heimtexil, Frankfurt
- Technotex, New Delhi
- Tex-Trends India www.textrendsindiafair.com
- Outdoor Retailer Summer/Winter Market, Salt Lake City
- ISPO Munich
- Sourcing at Magic, Las Vegas
- China Sport Show, Beijing
- Showtime International, High Point, North Carolina
- European Outdoor, Friedrichshafen, Germany
- Texcare Asia www.texcare-asia.com
- Fiermilano www.mifur.com
- Annual Meeting of International Fur Industry http://infurmag.com/successful-hosting-2013-annual-meeting-of-international-fur-industry/ http://www.kopenhagenfur.com/news/2013/november-2013/international-fur-industry-gathered-in-beijing
- Fur Fair Kastoria www.furfairkastoria.com
- Fur Excellence in Athens http://furfairofathens.org/
- Cashmere World Forum www.cashmereworldfair.com
- taipei innovative textile application show http://www.titas.tw/2013/home/index_tw.asp
- MICAM (http://www.micamonline.com/) and MIPEL http://www.mipel.com/en/, Milano
- ILM Supply Chain Summit http://www.internationalleathermaker.com/news/fullstory.php/aid/574/
- lineapelle http://www.lineapelle-fair.it/en/index.php, Bologna
- http://www.intertex.net.cn/ in Shenzhen
- hub fashion trade show http://ishk.infosalons.biz/reg/HUB14moNew/registeren/lookup.aspx (investhk is one of partners of the HUB), ?http://www.chinaexhibition.com/trade_events/4055-The_HUB_Hong_Kong_2013.html?
Media
- Ecotextile http://www.mowbray.uk.com/products/magazines.html, http://www.ecotextile.com/
- http://texpertise-network.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt/en/exhibitors/ueber_texpertise_network.html
- European Leather magazine https://portal.dnb.de/opac.htm?method=simpleSearch&cqlMode=true&query=idn%3D010501258
- www.lacenlingerie.com
dress code
- economist 4may19 "struggling with style" modern dress codes are easier for men than for women
Stylists
- grace lam, tina leung cote magazine fall2014
Website
- http://www.texglobe.net/
- visual dictionary of ancient costume http://visual.merriam-webster.com/clothing-articles/clothing.php
Events
- textile
- world textile merchandising conference
- 國際紡織製造商聯合會副主席、中國紡織工業聯合會長孫瑞哲27日在浙江紹興2019第二屆世界布商大會上坦言，「一帶一路」市場卻仍有顯著增長。 孫瑞哲認為，作為世界經濟的重要板塊和增長引擎，全球紡織行業共商共享、共建共融、共進共贏是大勢所趨。尤其是當前「一帶一路」願景之下，各國紡織業迎來前所未有的新機遇。大會當日，與會代表共同發布《世界布商宣言》，呼籲全球紡織同仁開放協同、利益共享，不斷推進產業與市場互聯互通，共同提升產業鏈發展水平。此外，還要充分發揮紡織服裝作為文化載體和文明橋樑的作用，共同提升產業文化價值。http://paper.takungpao.com/resfile/PDF/20190928/PDF/a18_screen.pdf
- garment
- India International Garment Fair, New Delhi www.indiaapparelfair.com
- india silk fair, osaka jul 2019
- http://www.indiainternationalsilkfair.com/
- yarn/spin
- yarn expo shanghai
- spin expo shanghai
- footwear
- GDS Fair, Dusseldorf http://www.gds-online.com/
- China International Footwear Fair, Shanghai www.ciffchina.com
- www.worldfootwear.com in Leon, mexico
- IFLE vietnam + shoes and leather vietnam www.ifle-vietnam.com/templates/ifle-vietnam/index.php
- Istanbul Leather Fair http://istanbulderifuari.com/en/index.php
- Paris Leather Fair http://www.cuiraparis.com/en/
- IDF www.istanbulleather.com
- Le show moscow www.leshow.ru
- China Fur and Leather Products Fair http://www.fur-fair.com/en/
- world leather congress , shanghai
- http://megaleathershow.pk/
- India International Leather Fair (
IILF) Chennai - expofur www.artexpo.ua
- asian fur trade conference
- international fur trade federation asia region meeting
- pan african leather fair organised by informa and powered by aplf
- sustainable leather forum www.slf-paris.com
- IULTCS international congress
- Indian fashion jewellery and accessories show www.epch.in
- international textile and garment technology (ITMA) barcelona https://www.itma.com/
- texworld, paris
- international apparel sourcing expo http://apparelsourcingshow-us.messefrankfurt.com/newyork/en/for-attendees/welcome.html
- China International Knitting Trade Fair, Shanghai
- TITAS, Taiwan
- Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
- PanTextiles Osaka
- Korea Style Week (two times a year)
- Heimtexil, Frankfurt
- Technotex, New Delhi
- Tex-Trends India www.textrendsindiafair.com
- Outdoor Retailer Summer/Winter Market, Salt Lake City
- ISPO Munich
- Sourcing at Magic, Las Vegas
- China Sport Show, Beijing
- Showtime International, High Point, North Carolina
- European Outdoor, Friedrichshafen, Germany
- Texcare Asia www.texcare-asia.com
- Fiermilano www.mifur.com
- Annual Meeting of International Fur Industry http://infurmag.com/successful-hosting-2013-annual-meeting-of-international-fur-industry/ http://www.kopenhagenfur.com/news/2013/november-2013/international-fur-industry-gathered-in-beijing
- Fur Fair Kastoria www.furfairkastoria.com
- Fur Excellence in Athens http://furfairofathens.org/
- Cashmere World Forum www.cashmereworldfair.com
- taipei innovative textile application show http://www.titas.tw/2013/home/index_tw.asp
- MICAM (http://www.micamonline.com/) and MIPEL http://www.mipel.com/en/, Milano
- ILM Supply Chain Summit http://www.internationalleathermaker.com/news/fullstory.php/aid/574/
- lineapelle http://www.lineapelle-fair.it/en/index.php, Bologna
- http://www.intertex.net.cn/ in Shenzhen
- hub fashion trade show http://ishk.infosalons.biz/reg/HUB14moNew/registeren/lookup.aspx (investhk is one of partners of the HUB), ?http://www.chinaexhibition.com/trade_events/4055-The_HUB_Hong_Kong_2013.html?
- international apparel and textile fair www.internationaltextilefair.com in dubai organised by nihalani events management
- Hong Kong International Fur and Fashion Fair
- Hong Kong International Fur and Fashion Fair
- 2013 edition highlight (source : http://www.chinaexhibition.com/trade_events/2626-2013_Hong_Kong_International_Fur_and_Fashion_Fair.html)
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